
Class 
Book 



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WAR DEPARTMENT, 

ADJUTANT-OEN ERAL'S OFFICE, £jJ^ 



Military Information Division. 



MILITARY NOTES 



ON 



PUERTO RICO. 



WASHINGTON : 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1898. 



1 1 1 2 




■ 



x 









v 



INTEODUCTOEY NOTE. 



The following notes were compiled for the information of the 
Army, and embody all reliable information available. Many of 
the books consulted in the preparation are old editions, and there- 
fore errors due to recent changes may be frequent. 

The notes are intended to snpplement the Military Map of 
Puerto Rico. The small scale index map will be of use in locating 
the principal cities and handy for referring to the other charts 
and plans attached to these notes. 

By permission of the Chief Hydrographer, United States Navy, 
the sailing directions for Mona Passage and the island of Puerto 
Rico have been reprinted in full and added to these notes as a 
supplement. 

The following books and works were consulted and matter from 
them freely used in the preparation of the notes : 

Guia Geogr^fico Militar de Espana y Provincias Ultramarinas, 
1879. 

Espana, sus Monumentos y Artes, su Naturaleza6Historia, 1887. 

Compendio de Geografia Militar de Espana y Portugal, 1882. 

Anuario de Comercio de Espana, 1896. 

Anuario Militar de Espana, 1898. 

Reclus, Nouvelle Geographie Universelle, 1891. 

Advance Sheets American Consular Reports, 1898. 

An Account of the Present State of the Island of Puerto Rico, 
1834. 

The Statesman's Year Book, 1898. 

Washington, July, 1898. 

3 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Situation 7 

Size ..... 7 

Population 7 

Soil 7 

Climate 7 

Storms 10 

Earthquakes 11 

Tides 11 

Orography 11 

Approximate height of towns above sea level 12 

Hydrography 12 

Coasts, harbors, bays, and coves 14 

Highways 16 

Eailroads 18 

Telegraphs 19 

Telephones 19 

Administration 20 

Education 20 

Agriculture, industry, and commerce 20 

Adjacent islands 20 

Table of distances between principal cities 22 

Cities, villages, etc 23 

Stations ancl strength of Spanish troops 40 

SUPPLEMENT. 

Sailing directions for Puerto Eico and Mona Passage 49 

5 




INDEX MAP 

OF 

PUERTO RICO 

AND 
ADJACENT ISLANDS 



.NTIONAP. SK.NS 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 



Situation. — Puerto Rico is situated in the Torrid Zone, in the 
easternmost part of the Antilles, between latitude 17° 54' and 18° 
30' 40" M. and longitude 61° 54' 26" and 63° 32' 32" W. of Madrid. 
It is bounded on the north by the Atlantic, on the east and south 
by the sea of the Antilles, and on the west by the Mona Channel. 

Size. — The island of Puerto Rico, the fourth in size of the An- 
tilles, has, according to a recent report of the British consul (1897), 
an extent of about 3,668 squai e miles — 35 miles broad and 95 miles 
long. It is of an oblong form, extending from east to west. 

Population. — Puerto Rico is the first among the Antilles in den- 
sity of population and in prosperity. The Statesman's Year Book, 
1898, gives the population (1887) at 813,937, of which over 300,000 
are negroes, this being one of the few countries of tropical Amer- 
ica where the number 6f whites exceeds that of other races. The 
whites and colored, however, are all striving in the same movement 
of civilization, and are gradually becawning more alike in ideas and 
manners. Among the white population the number of males 
exceeds the number of females, which is the contrary of all 
European countries. This is partly explained by the fact that the 
immigrants are mostly males. On an average the births exceed 
the deaths by double. The eastern portion of the island is less 
populous than the western. 

Soil. — The ground is very fertile, being suitable for the cultiva- 
tion of cane, coffee, rice, and other products raised in Cuba, which 
island Puerto Rico resembles in richness and fertility. 

Climate. — The climate is hot and moist, the medium temperature 
reaching 104° F. Constant rains and winds from the east cool 
the heavy atmosphere of the low regions. On the heights of the 
Central Cordillera the temperature is healthy and agreeable. 

Iron rusts and becomes consumed, so that nothing can be con- 
structed of this metal. Even bronze artillery has to be covered 
with a strong varnish to protect it from the damp winds. 

Although one would suppose that all' the large islands in the 
Tropics enjoyed the same climate, yet from the greater mortality 
observed in Jamaica, St. Domingo, and Cuba, as compared with 
Puerto Rico, one is inclined to believe that this latter island is 
much more congenial than any of the former to the health of 

7 



8 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

Europeans. The heat, the rains, and the seasons are, with very 
trifling variations, the same in all. But the number of moun- 
tains and running streams, which are everywhere in view in 
Puerto Rico, and the general cultivation of the land, may power- 
fully contribute to purify the atmosphere and render it salubri- 
ous to man. The only difference of temperature to be observed 
throughout the island is due to altitude, a change which is com- 
mon to every country under the influence of the Tropics. 

In the mountains the inhabitants enjoy the coolness of spring, 
while the valleys would be uninhabitable were it not for the daily 
breeze which blows generally from the northeast and east. For 
example, in Ponce the noonday sun is felt in all its rigor, while 
at the village of Adjuntas, 4 leagues distant in the interior of 
the mountains, the traveler feels invigorated by the refreshing 
breezes of a temperate clime. At one place the thermometer is as 
high as 90°, while in another it is sometimes under 60°. Although 
the seasons are not so distinctly marked in this climate as they are 
in Europe (the trees being always green), yet there is a distinction 
to be made between them. The division into wet and dry seasons 
(winter and summer) does not give a proper idea of the seasons in 
this island ; for on the north coast it sometimes rains almost the 
whole year, while sometimes for twelve or fourteen months not a 
drop of rain falls on the south coast. However, in the mountains 
at the south there are daily showers. Last year, for example, in 
the months of November, December, and January the north winds 
blew with violence, accompanied by heavy showers of rain, while 
this year (1832) in the same months, it has scarcely blown a whole 
day from that point of the compass, nor has it rained for a whole 
month. Therefore, the climate of the north and south coasts of 
this island, although under the same tropical influence, are essen- 
tially different. 

As in all tropical countries, the year is divided into two sea- 
sons — the dry and the rainy. In general, the rainy season com- 
mences in August and ends the last of December, southerly and 
westerly winds prevailing during this period. The rainfall is 
excessive, often inundating fields and forming extensive lagoons. 
The exhalations from these lagoons give rise to a number of dis- 
eases, but, nevertheless, Puerto Eico is one of the healthiest islands 
of the Archipelago. 

In the month of May the rains commence, not with the fury of 
a deluge, as in the months of August and September, but heavier 
than any rain experienced in Europe. Peals of thunder rever- 
berating through the mountains give a warning of their approach, 
and the sun breaking through the clouds promotes the prolific 
vegetation of the fields with its vivifying heat. The heat at this 
season is equal to the summer of Europe, and the nights are cool 
and pleasant; but the dews are heavy and pernicious to health. 
The following meteorological observations, carefully made by 
Don Jose Ma. Verte'z, a captain of the Spanish navy, will exhibit 
the average range of the temperature : 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 9 

Degrees of heat observed in the capital of Puerto Rico, taking a medium 
of five years. 



Hours of the day. 


H5 


,6 


si 


< 




hi 




bio 
«4 


ft 

80J 

88 

83 


© 
O 

77 
85 
82 


o 

75 
84 

80 


6 
© 
P 


Seven in the morning; 


82 
78 


72J 

81 

74 


74 
82 

78 


78 
83 
80 


78 
85 
81 


82 
86 
84 


85 
90 

87 


86 
92 
90 


75 

80 


Five in the evening 


79 



The weather, after a fifteen or twenty days' rain, clears up, and 
the sun, whose heat has been hitherto moderated by partial clouds 
and showers of rain, seems, as it were, set in a cloudless sky. The 
cattle in the pastures look for the shade of the trees, aud a perfect 
calm pervades the whole face of nature from sunrise till between 
10 and 11 o'clock in the morning, when the sea breeze sets in. The 
leaves of the trees seem as if afraid to move, and the sea, without 
a wave or a ruffle on its vast expanse, appears like an immense 
mirror, Man partakes in the general languor as well as the vege- 
table and brute creation. 

The nights, although warm, are delightfully clear and serene 
at this season. Objects may be clearly distinguished at the dis- 
tance of several hundred yards, so that one may even shoot by 
moonlight. The months of June and July offer very little varia- 
tion in the weather or temperature. In August a suffocating heat 
reigns throughout the day, and at night it is useless to seek for 
coolness; a faint zephyr is succeeded by a calm of several hours. 
The atmosphere is heavy and oppressive, and the body, weakened 
by perspiration, becomes languid; the appetite fails, and the 
mosquitoes, buzzing about the ears by day and night, perplex 
and annoy by their stings, while the fevers of the tropics attack 
Europeans with sudden aud irresistible violence. This is the 
most sickly season for the European. The thermometer frequently 
exceeds 90°. The clouds exhibit a menacing appearance, portend- 
ing the approach of the heavy autumnal rains, which pour down 
like a deluge. About the middle of September it appears as if all 
the vapors of the ocean had accumulated in one point of the 
heavens. The rain comes down like an immense quantity of water 
poured through a sieve ; it excludes from the view every surround- 
ing object, and in half an hour the whole surface of the earth 
becomes an immense sheet of water. The rivers are swollen and 
overflow their banks, the low lands are completely inundated, 
and the smallest brooks become deep and rapid torrents. 

In the month of October the weather becomes sensibly cooler 
than during the preceding months, and in November the north 
and northeast, winds generally set in, diffusing an agreeable cool- 
ness through the surrounding atmosphere. The body becomes 
braced and active, and the convalescent feels its genial influence. 



10 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

The north wind is accompanied (with few exceptions) by heavy 
showers of rain on the north coast ; and the sea rolls on that coast 
with tempestuous violence, while the south coast remains perfectly 
calm. 

When the fury of the north wind abates, it is succeeded by fine 
weather and a clear sky. Nothing can exceed the climate of 
Puerto Rico at this season; one can only compare it to the month 
of May in the delightful Province of Andalusia, where the cold of 
winter and the burning heat of summer are tempered by the cool 
freshness of spring. This is considered to be the healthiest season 
of the year, when a European may visit the tropics without fear. 

The small islands, destitute of wood and high mountains, which 
have a powerful effect in attracting the clouds, suffer much from 
drought. It sometimes happens that in Curasao, St. Bartholo- 
mews, and other islands there are whole years without a drop of 
rain, and after exhausting their cisterns the inhabitants are com- 
pelled to import water from the rivers of other islands. 

"The land breeze" is an advantage which the large islands de- 
rive from the inequality of their surface; for as soon as the sea 
breeze dies away, the hot air of the valleys being rarefied, ascends 
toward the tops of the mountains, and is there condensed by cold, 
which makes it specifically heavier than it was before; it then 
descends back to the valleys on both sides of the ridge. Hence a 
night wind (blowing on all sides from the land toward the shore) 
is felt in all the mountainous countries under the torrid zone. 
On the north shore the wind comes from the south, and on the 
south shore from the north. 

Storms. — The hurricanes which visit the island, and which obey 
the general laws of tropical cyclones, are one of the worst scourges 
of the country. For hours before the appearance of this terrible 
phenomenon the sea appears calm ; the waves come from a long 
distance very gently until near the shore, when they suddenly 
rise as if impelled by a superior force, dashing against the land 
with extraordinary violence and fearful noise. Together with 
this sign, the air is noticed to be' disturbed, the sun red, and the 
stars obscured by a vapor which seems to magnify them. A strong 
odor is perceived in the sea, which is sulphureous in the waters of 
rivers, and there are sudden changes in the wind. These omens, 
together with the signs of uneasiness manifested by various ani- 
mals, foretell the proximity of a hurricane. 

This is a sort of whirlwind, accompanied by rain, thunder, and 
lightning, sometimes by earthquake shocks, and always by the 
most terrible and devastating circumstances that can possibly 
combine to ruin a country in a few hours. A clear, serene day is 
followed by the darkest night ; the delightful view offered by 
woods and prairies is diverted into the dreary waste of a cruel 
winter; the tallest and most robust cedar trees are uprooted, 
broken off bodily, and hurled into a heap; roofs, balconies, and 
windows of houses are carried through the air like dry leaves, and 
in all directions are seen houses and estates laid waste and thrown 
into confusion. 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 11 

The fierce roar of the water and of the trees being destroyed by 
the winds, the cries and moans of persons, the bellowing of cattle 
and neighing of horses, which are being carried from place to 
place by the whirlwinds, the torrents of water inundating the 
fields, and a deluge of fire being let loose in flashes and streaks of 
lightning, seem to announce the last convulsions of the universe 
and the death agonies of nature itself. 

Sometimes these hurricanes are felt only on the north coast, at 
others on the south coast, although generally their influence 
extends throughout the island. 

In 1825 a hurricane destroyed the towns of Patillas, Maunabo, 
Yabucoa, Humacao, Gurabo, audCaguas, causing much damage in 
other towns in the east, north, and center of the island. The 
island was also visited by a terrible hurricane in 1772. 

Earthquakes. — Earthquakes are somewhat frequent, but not vio- 
lent or of great consequence. The natives foretell them by 
noticing clouds settle near the ground for some time in the open 
places among tbe mountains. The water of the springs emits a 
sulphurous odor or leaves a strange taste in the mouth; birds 
gather in large flocks and fly about uttering shriller cries than 
usual; cattle bellow and horses neigh, etc. A few hours before- 
hand the air becomes calm and dimmed by vapors which arise 
from the ground, and a few moments before there is a slight 
breeze, followed at intervals of two or three minutes by a deep 
rumbling noise, accompanied by a sudden gust of wind, which are 
the forerunners of the vibration, the latter following immediately. 
These shocks are sometimes violent and are usually rex>eated, but 
owing to the special construction of the houses, they cause no 
damage. 

Tides. — For seven hours the tide runs rapidly in a northwest 
direction, returning in the opposite direction with equal rapidity 
for five hours. 

Orography. — The general relief of Puerto Rico is much inferior 
in altitude to that of the rest of the Great Antilles, and even some 
of the Lesser Antilles have mountain summits which rival it. 

A great chain of mountains divides the islands into two parts, 
northern and southern, which are called by the natives Banda del 
Norte and Banda del Sur. This chain sends out long ramifications 
toward the coasts, the interstices of which form beautiful and 
fertile valleys, composed in the high parts of white and red earths, 
on the spurs of black and weaker earths, and near the coasts of 
sand. 

To the northwest and following a direction almost parallel 
with the northern coast, the Sierra of Lares extends from Aguadilla 
to the town of Lares, where it divides into two branches, one 
going north nearly to the coast, near Arecibo Harbor, and the 
other extending to the spurs of the Sierra Grande de Banos ; this 
latter starting from Point Guaniquilla, crosses the island in its 
entire length, its last third forming the Sierra of Cayey. 

The whole island may be said to form a continuous network of 
sierras, hills, and heights. Of these the Sierra del Loquillo is 



12 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

distinguished for its great altitude (the highest peak being 
Yunque, in the northeast corner of the island and visible from the 
sea, a distance of 120 kilometers), as is also Laivonito Mountain, 
near the south coast. 

The following are the four highest mountains, with their heights 
above the sea level : Yunque, in Luquillo, 1,290 yards ; Guilarte, 
in Adjuntas, 1,180 yards; La Somanta, in Aybonito, 1,077 yards; 
Las Tetas de Cerro Gordo, in San German, 860 yards. All areeasily 
ascended on foot or horseback, and there are coffee plantations 
near all of them. 

Approximate height of towns above the sea level. — Aybonito, with 
its acclimatization station, 970 yards; Adjuntas, an almost exclu- 
sively Spanish town, 810 yards; Cayey, with a very agreeable 
climate, 750 yards; Lares, with a very agreeable climate, 540 
yards; Utuacio, with a very agreeable climate, 480 yards ; Muri- 
cao, an exclusively Spanish town, 480 yards. To ascend to all these 
towns there are very good wagon roads. There are no fortifica- 
tions of any kind in them, but they are surrounded on all sides 
by mountains. 

Hydrography. — Few countries of the extent of Puerto Rico are 
watered by so many streams. Seventeen rivers, taking their rise 
in the mountains, cross the valleys of the north coast and empty 
into the sea. Some of these are navigable 2 or 3 leagues from 
their mouths for schooners and small coasting vessels. Those 
of Manati, Loisa, Trabajo, and Arecibo are very deep and broad, 
and it is difficult to imagine how such large bodies of water can 
be collected in so short a course. Owing to the heavy surf which 
continually breaks on the north coast, these rivers have bars across 
their embouchures which do not allow large vessels to enter. The 
rivers of Bayamo and Rio Piedras flow into the harbor of the 
capital, and are also navigable for boats. At high water small 
brigs may enter the river of Arecibo with perfect safety and dis- 
charge their cargoes, notwithstanding the bar which crosses its 
mouth. 

The rivers of the north coast have a decided advantage over 
those of the south coast, where the climate is drier and the rains 
less frequent. Nevertheless, the south, west, and east coasts are 
well supplied with water; and, although in some seasons it does 
not rain for ten, and sometimes twelve months on the south coast, 
the rivers are never entirely dried up. 

From the Cabeza de San Juan, which is the northeast extremity 
of the island, to the cape of Mala Pascua, which lies to the south- 
east, 9 rivers fall into the sea. 

From Cape Mala Pascua to Point Aguila, which forms the south- 
west angle of the island, 16 rivers discharge their waters on the 
south coast. ' 

On the west coast 3 rivers, 5 rivulets, and several fresh- water 
lakes communicate with the sea. In the small extent of 330 
leagues of area there are 46 rivers, besides a countless number of 
rivulets and branches of navigable water. 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 13 

The rivers of the north coast are stocked with delicious fish, 
some of them large enough to weigh two quintals. 

From the river of Arecibo to that of Manati, a distance of 5 
leagues, a fresh-water lagoon, perfectly navigable for small ves- 
sels through the whole of its extent, runs parallel to the sea at 
about a mile from the shore. 

In the fertile valley of Afiasco, on the western coast, there is a 
canal formed by nature, deep and navigable. None of the rivers 
are of real military importance ; for. though considering the short- 
ness of their course, they attain quite a volume, still it is not suf- 
ficient for good-sized vessels. 

The rivers emptying on the north coast are Lo^sa, Aguas Prietas, 
Arecibo, Bayamon, Camuy, Cedros, Graude, Guajataca dela Tuna, 
Lesayas, Loquillo, Manati, Rio Piedras, Sabana, San Martin, Sibuco, 
Toa, and Vega. 

Those emptying on the east coast are Candelero, Dagua, Fajardo, 
Guayanes, Majogua, and Maonabo. 

On the south coast: Aquamanil, Caballon, Caiia, Coamo, Des- 
calabrado, Guanica, Guayama, Guayanilla, Jacagua, Manglar, 
Penuela, Ponce, and Vigia. 

On the west coast: Aguada, Boqueron, Cajas, Culebrina, Chico, 
Guanajibo, Mayagiiez, and Rincon. 

The limits of the Loisa River are: On the east, the sierra of 
Luquillo (situated near the northeast corner of the island) ; on 
the south, the sierra of Cayey, and on the west, ramifications of 
the latter. It rises in the northern slopes of the sierra of Cayey, 
and, running in a northwest direction for the first half of its 
course and turning to northeast in the second half, it arrives at 
Loisa, a port on the northern coast, where it discharges its waters 
into the Atlantic. During the first part of its course it is known 
by the name of Cayagua. 

The Sabana River has, to the east and south, the western and 
southern limits of the preceding river, and on the west the Sierra 
Grande, or De Barros, which is situated in the center of the gen- 
eral divide or watershed. It rises in the sierra of Cayey, and, with 
the name of Pifiones River, it flows northwest, passing through 
Aibonito, Toa Alta, Toa Baja, and Dorado, where it discharges 
into the Atlantic to the west of the preceding river. 

The Manati River is bounded on the east and south by the Sierra 
Grande and on the west by the Siales ridge. It rises in the Sierra 
Grande, and parallel with the preceding river, it flows through 
Siales and Manati, to the north of which latter town it empties 
into the Atlantic. 

The Arecibo River is bounded on the east by the Siales Moun- 
tain ridge, on the south by the western extremity of the Sierra 
Grande, and on the west by the Lares ridge. It rises in the gen- 
eral divide, near Adjuntas, and flows north through the town of 
Arecibo to the Atlantic, shortly before emptying into which it 
receives the Tanama River from the left, which proceeds from the 
Lares Mountains. 



14 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

The Culebrina River is bounded on the south and east by the 
Lares Mountain ridge, and on the north by small hills of little 
interest. From the Lares Mountains it flows from east to west 
and empties on the west coast north of San Francisco de la Aguada, 
in the center of the bay formed between Point Peflas Blancas and 
Point San Francisco. 

The Anasco River is formed by the Lares Mountain ridge. It 
rises in the eastern extremity of the mountains called Tetas de 
Cerro Gordo, flowing first northwest, and then west, through the 
town of its name and thence to the sea. 

The Guanajivo River has to its north the ramification of the Lares 
ridge, to the east the Tetas de Cerro Gordo Mountains, and on the 
south Torre Hill. In the interior of its basin is the mountain 
called Cerro Montuoso, which separates its waters from those of 
its affluent from the right, the Rosario River. It rises in the gen- 
eral divide, flowing from east to west to Nuestra Senora de Mont- 
serrat, where it receives the affluent mentioned, the two together 
then emptying south of Port Mayagiiez. 

The Coamo River is bounded on the west and north by the 
Sierra Grande, and on the east by the Coamo ridge. It rises in 
the former of these sierras, and flowing from north to south it 
empties east of Coamo Point, after having watered the town of 
its name. 

The Salinas River is bounded on the west by the Coamo ridge, 
on the north by the general divide, and on the east by the Cayey 
ridge. It rises in the southern slopes of the Sierra Grande and 
flowing from north to south through Salinas de Coamo, empties 
into the sea. 

Coasts, harbors, days, and coves. — The northern coasts extends 
in an almost straight line from east to west, and is high and rug- 
ged. The only harbors it has are the following: San Juan de 
Puerto Rico, surrounded by mangrove swamps and protected by 
the Cabras and the Cabritas islands and some very dangerous 
banks; the anchoring ground of Arecibo, somewhat unprotected; 
and the coves of Cangrejos and Condado. During the months of 
November, December, and January, when the wind blows with 
violence from the ease and northeast, the anchorage is dangerous 
in all the bays and harbors of this coast, except in the port of San 
Juan. Vessels are often obliged to put to sea on the menacing 
aspect of the heavens at this season, to avoid being driven on shore 
by the heavy squalls and the rolling waves of a boisterous sea, 
which propel them to destruction. During the remaining months 
the ports on this coast are safe and commodious, unless when vis- 
ited by a hurricane, against whose fury no port can offer a shelter, 
nor any vessel be secure. The excellent port of San Juan is per- 
fectly sheltered from the effects of the north wind. The hill, upon 
which the town of that name and the fortifications which defend 
it are built, protects the vessels anchored in the harbor. The 
entrance of this port is narrow, and requires a pilot ; for the canal 
which leads to the anchorage, although deep enough for vessels 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 15 

of any dimensions, is very narrow, which exposes them to run 
aground. This port is several miles in extent, and has the advan- 
tage of having deep canals to the east, among a wood of mangrove 
trees, where vessels are perfectly secure during the hurricane 
months. Vessels of 250 tons can at present unload and take in 
their cargoes at the wharf. Harbor improvements have been 
recently made here. 

On the northwest and west are the coves of Aguadilla, the town 
of this name being some 4 kilometers inland. There are the small 
coves of Rincon, Aiiasco, and MayagLiez, the latter being pro- 
tected and of sufficient depth to anchor vessels of moderate draft; 
the harbor of Real de Cabo Rojo, nearly round, and entered by a 
narrow channel; and the cove of Boqueron. The spacious bay of 
Aguadilla is formed by Cape Borrigna and Cape San Francisco. 
When the north-northwest and southwest winds prevail it is not 
a safe anchorage for ships. A heavy surf rolling on the shore 
obliges vessels to seek safety by putting to sea on the appearance 
of a north wind. Mayagiiez is also an open roadstead formed by 
two projecting capes. It has good anchorage for vessels of a large 
size and is well sheltered from the north winds. The port of Cabo 
Rojo has also good anchorage. It is situated S. J N. of the point 
of Guanajico, at a distance of 5^ miles. Its shape is nearty circu- 
lar, and it extends from east to west 3 to 4 miles. At the entrance 
it has 3 fathoms of water, and 16 feet in the middle of the harbor. 
The entrance is a narrow canal. 

The south coast abounds in bays and harbors, but is covered 
with mangroves and reefs, the only harbor where vessels of 
regular draft can enter being Guanica and Ponce. The former of 
these is the westernmost harbor on the southern coast, being at 
the same time the best, though the least visited, owing to the 
swamps and low tracts difficult to cross leading from it to the 
interior. The nearest towns, San German, Sabana Grande, and 
Yauco, carry on a small trade through this port. 

In the port of Guanica, vessels drawing 21 feet of water may 
enter with perfect safety. Its entrance is about 100 yards wide, 
and it forms a spacious basin, completely landlocked. The ves- 
sels may anchor close to the shore. It has, in the whole extent, 
from 6£ to 3 fathoms, the latter depth being formed in the exterior 
of the port. The entrance is commanded by two small hills on 
either side, which if mounted with a few pieces of artillery would 
defy a squadron to force it. This port would be of immense ad- 
vantage in time of war. The national vessels and coasters would 
thus have a secure retreat from an enemy's cruiser on the south 
coast. There are no wharves, but vessels could disembark troops 
by running alongside the land and running out a plank. Coamo 
Cove and Aguirre and Guayama are also harbors. The port of 
Jovos, near Guayama, is a haven of considerable importance. It 
is a large and healthy place, and the most Spanish of any city on 
the island after San Juan. There are good roads to the capital. 
Vessels of the largest kind may anchor and ride in safety from 



16 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

the winds, and the whole British navy would find room in its 
spacious bosom. It has 4 fathoms of water in the shallowest part 
of the entrance. However, it is difficult to enter this port from 
June to November, as the sea breaks with violence at the entranee. 
on account of the southerly winds which reign at that season. It 
has every convenience of situation and locality for forming docks 
for the repair of shipping. The large bay of Aiiasco, on the south 
coast, affords anchorage to vessels of all sizes. It is also safe 
from the north winds. Although on the eastern coast there are 
many places for vessels to anchor, yet none of them are exempt 
from danger during the north winds except Faj ardo, where a safe 
anchorage is to be found to leeward of two little islands close to 
the bay, where vessels are completely sheltered. 

The island of Vieques has also several commodious ports and 
harbors, where vessels of the largest size may ride at anchor. 

On the east coast is Cape Cabeza de San Juan, Points Lima, 
Candeleros, and Naranjo, and Cape Mala Pascua; on the south 
coast, Point Viento, Tigueras, Corchones, Arenas, Fama or Maria, 
Cucharas, Guayanilla, Guanica, and Morrillos de Cabo Rojo ; on the 
west coast, points San Francisco, Cadena, Guanijito, Guaniquilla, 
and Palo Seco. 

Highways. — There are few roads or ways of communication which 
are worthy of mention, with the exception of the broad pike which 
starts from the capital and runs along the coast, passing through 
the following towns: Aguadilla, Bayamon, Cabo Rojo, Humacao, 
Juana Diaz, Mayagiiez, Ponce, and San German. It has no bridges ; 
is good in dry weather, but in the rainy season is impassible for 
wagons and even at times for horsemen. 

For interior communication there are only a few local roads or 
paths. They are usually 2 yards in width, made by the various 
owners, and can not be well traveled in rainy weather. They 
are more properly horse and mule trails, and oblige people to go 
in single file. In late years much has been attempted to improve 
the highways connecting the principal cities, and more has been 
accomplished than in Spanish colonies. There is a good made 
road connecting Ponce on the southern coast with San Juan, the 
capital. Other good roads also extend for a short distance along 
the north coast and along the south coast. The road from Guay- 
ama is also said to be a passably good one. 

There are in the island about 150 miles of excellent road, and 
this is all that receives any attention, transportation being effected 
elsewhere on horseback. In the construction of a road level foun- 
dation is sought, and on this is put a heavy layer of crushed rock 
and brick, which, after having been well packed and rounded, is 
covered with a layer of earth. This is well packed also, and upon 
the whole is spread a layer of ground limestone, which is pressed 
and rolled until it forms almost a glossy surface. This makes an 
excellent road here where the climate is such that it does not 
affect it, and when there is no heavy traffic, but these conditions 
being changed, the road ? it is thought, would not stand so well. 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 17 

From Palo Seco, situated about a mile aud a half from the cap- 
ital, on the opposite side of the bay, a carriage road, perfectly level, 
has been constructed for a distance of 22 leagues, to the town of 
Aguadilla on the west coast, passing through the towns of Vega- 
baja, Manati, Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, and Isabella. This road 
has been carried for several leagues over swampy lands, which 
are intersected by deep drains to carry off the water. 

The road from Aguadilla to Mayagiiez is in some parts very 
good, in other parts only fair. From Aguadilla to Aguada, a dis- 
tance of a league, the road is excellent and level. From thence 
to Mayagiiez, through the village of Rincon and the town of 
Ahasco, the road is generally good, but on the seashore it is some- 
times interrupted by shelving rocks. Across the valley of Afiasco 
the road is carried through a boggy tract, with bridges over sev- 
eral deep creeks of fresh water. From thence to the large com- 
mercial town of Mayagiiez. the road is uneven and requires some 
improvement. But the roads from Mayagiiez and Ponce to their 
respective ports on the seashore can not be surpassed by any in 
Europe. They are made in a most substantial manner, and their 
convex form is well adapted to preserve them from the destruction 
caused by the heavy rains of the climate. These roads have been 
made over tracts of swampy ground to the seacoast, but with 
little and timely repair they will last forever. 

A road, which maybe called a carriage road, has been made from 
Ponce to the village of Adjuntas, situated 5 leagues in the interior 
of the mountains. The road along the coast, from Ponce to Guay- 
ama, is fairly good; from thence to Patillas there is an excellent 
carriage road for a distance of 3 leagues; from the latter place to 
the coast is a highroad well constructed. From Patillas to Fa- 
jardo, on the eastern coast, passing through the towns of Maimavo, 
Yubacao, Humacao, and Naguabo, the roads are not calculated for 
wheel vehicles, in consequence of being obliged to ascend and de- 
scend several steep hills. That which crosses the mountain of 
Mala Pascua, dividing the north and east coasts, is a good and 
solid road, upon which a person on horseback may travel with 
great ease and safety. The road crossing the valley of Yubacao, 
which consists of a soft and humid soil, requires more attention 
than that crossing the mountain of Mala Pascua, which has a fine, 
sandy soil. 

From Fajardo to the capital, through the towns of Luquillo, 
Loisa., and Rio Piedras, the road is tolerably good for persons on 
horseback as far as Rio Piedras, and from thence to the city of 
San Juan, a distance of 2 leagues, is an excellent carriage road, 
made by the order and under the inspection of the captain-general, 
part of it through a mangrove swamp. Over the river Loisa is a 
handsome wooden bridge, and on the road near Rio Piedras is a 
handsome stone one over a deep rivulet. 

One of the best roads in the island extends from the town of 
Papino, situated in the mountains, to the town of Aguadilla on 
the coast, distant 5£ leagues, through the village of La Moca; in 

1676 2 



18 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

the distance of 3 leagues from the latter place. It is crossed by 
10 deep mountain, rivulets, formerly impassable, but over which 
solid bridges have now been built, with side railings. In the 
mountainous district within the circumference of a few leagues 
no less than 47 bridges have been built to facilitate the communi- 
cation between one place and the other. 

The following are the roads of 6 meters width, 4£ in center of 
pounded stone. They have iron bridges and are in good shape for 
travel all the year: 

(1) San Juan to the shore near Ponce. — From San Juan to Ponce 
the central road is exactly 134 kilometers. Distances along the 
line are: Rio Piedras, 11; Caguas, 25; to Cayei, 24; Aybonito, 
20; Coamo, 18; Juana Diaz, 20; to Ponce, 13; and to the shore, 3. 
Exact. 

(2) San Juan to Bayamon. — By ferry fifteen minutes to Cataiio, 
and from there by road to Bayamon 10 kilometers. This passes 
alongside the railway. 

(3) Rio Piedras to Mameyes, 36 kilometers ; from Rio Piedras 
to Carolina, 12; to Rio Grande, 19; to Mameyes, 5. 

(4) Cayei to Arroyo, 35 kilometers; from Cayei to Guayama, 25; 
to Arroyo, 8 ; from San Juan to Arroyo, via Cayei, is 95 kilometers. 

(5) Ponce to Adjuntas, 32 kilometers. 

(6) San German to Aiiasco, 33 kilometers; from San German to 
Mayagiiez, 21 kilometers; Mayagiiez to Anasco, 12; Mayagiiez to 
Hormigueros, 11; Mayagiiez to Cabo Rqjo, 18; Mayagiiez to Las 
Marias, 23 ; Mayagiiez to Maricao, 35 ; Hormigueras to San Ger- 
man, 14. Near Mayagiiez the roads are best. There are good 
roads in all directions. 

(7) Aguadilla to San Sebastian, 18. 

(8) Arecibo to Utuado, 33. 

Highways of first class in the island. 335 kilometers. 

Along these roads are, at a distance of 8 to 10 kilometers, a fort, 
stone and brick barracks, or large buildings, where the Spanish 
troops stop and rest when on the march. 

Railroads. — In 1878 a report was presented to the minister of the 
colonies on a study made by the engineer and head of public works 
of the island in view of constructing a railroad which should start 
from the capital and, passing through all the chief towns and 
through the whole island, return to the point of departure. 

The following paragraph relating to the subject is taken from 
the Revista Geogralica y Estadistica: 

"In Puerto Rico the whistle of the locomotive is unknown, nor 
is there even a tramway. Enterprises of this nature are not easy 
of success, owing to a lack of sufficient highways to facilitate 
their exploitation. To show this it will suffice to recall the fact 
that the two principal towns of the island, Mayagiiez and Ponce, 
do not communicate by an easy land road with the capital. Trans- 
portation is effected almost entirely by sea, and for the purpose 
there is but one harbor, that of the capital, it being necessary in 
other points of the island to await the tide in order to disembark." 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 19 

Something, however, has heen accomplished toward the comple- 
tion of this railroad which is to encircle the entire island. The 
chief purpose of building this road was to facilitate the movement 
of Spanish troops to any part of the island. 

Of this railroad the following parts have heen completed : San 
Juan, along the coast through Rio Piedras, Bayamon, Dorado, 
Arecibo, and Hatillo, to Camuy ; Aguadilla, through Aguado, Rin- 
c6n, Anasco, and Mayagiiez, to Hormigueros. A branch of this 
railroad from Anasco, through San Sebastian, to l_,ares. Ponce, 
through Guayanilla, to Yauco. This latter railroad follows the 
southern coast line and is followed by a wagon road throughout- its 
course. In one place the railroad and road run within a few hun- 
dred yards of the coastline. According to the Statesman's Year- 
Book for 1898 there are in operation 137 miles of railroad, besides 
over 170 miles under construction. 

All the railroads are single track, and the gauge is 1 meter 20 
centimeters, or 3 feet Hi inches (47.24). 

The following are the railways of 1-meter gauge : 

(1) San Juan to Rio Piedras, 11 kilometers. 

(2) Catano to Bayamon, 10 kilometers. 

(3) Anasco to San Sebastian and Lares, 35 kilometers. 
Total of three lines, 56 kilometers. 

COMPANIA. FRANCESA, 1 METER AND 20 CENTIMETERS GAUGE. 

1. San Juan to Rio Piedras, 11 kilometers, and to Carolina, 12 
kilometers. 

2. San Juan to Bayamon, 14; to Toa Baja, 15; to Dorado, 4; 
Vega Baja, 18; Manati, 12; Barceloneta, 17; to Areciba, 8; to 
Hatillo, i0; to Camuey, 2. Total, 100 kilometers. 

3. Line from Aguadillo to Hormiguero, 58 kilometers. Agua- 
dillo to Aguada, 6; Rincon, 8; Anasco, 16; Mayagiiez, 15; to Hor- 
miguero, 13 kilometers. 

Line from Yauco to Ponce, 35 kilometers. Yauco to Guayanillo, 
12 ; to Tailaboa, 8 ; to Ponce, 15. 

The lines are all in good shape; have plenty of engines and 
cars; speed, 20 kilometers per hour; use coal for fuel imported 
from the United States ; supply usually large, may be small now ; 
hard coal ; tine stations ; plenty of water, and everything in shape 
for business. 

Telegraphs. — The capital communicates with the principal towns 
of the coast and interior by means of a well-connected telegraph 
system. There are in all some 470 miles of telegraph. 

Telephones. — The British Consular Report says that the telephone 
system of San Juan, Ponce, and Mayagiiez have recently been 
contracted for by local syndicates. In Ponce a United States 
company obtained the contract for the material. There are 100 
stations already connected, and it is expected that 200 more will 
be in operation shortly. 



20 MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 

Administration. — From an administrative standpoint, Puerto Rico 
is not considered as a colony, but as a province of Spain, assimi- 
lated to the remaining provinces. The governor-general, repre- 
senting the monarchy, is at the same time captain-general of the 
armed forces. In each chief town resides a military commander, 
and each town has its alcalde, or mayor, appointed by the central 
power. The provincial deputation is elected by popular suffrage 
under the same conditions as in Spain. The regular peace garrison 
is composed of about 3,000 men, and the annual budget amounts 
to some 20,000,000 pesos. 

Education. — In 1887 only one- seventh of the population could 
read and write, but of late years progress in public instruction 
has been rapid. 

Agriculture, industry, and commerce. — In 1878 there arrived in the 
harbors of the island 1,591 vessels of different nationalities and 
1,534 departed. The value of products imported was 14,787,551 
pesos, and that of articles exported was 13,070,020 pesos. The 
following are the relative percentages of values: 



Elags. Relation. 



| Per cent. 

Spanish , 49.91 

American j 1 3. 47 

English. I 21.43 

Various nations I 15. 19 



Total 



100. 00 



Navigation is very active, but the part the inhabitants take in 
the commercial fleet is small. The Puerto Ricans are not seagoing- 
people. The eastern part of the island offers less advantage to 
commerce than the western, being to the windward and affording 
less shelter to vessels. 

Adjacent islands. — Adjacent to Puerto Rico on the east are the 
islands of Gulebra, Vieques, Santa Cruz, and the group called the 
Virgin Islands, belonging to England and Denmark; on the west 
are those of Saona and Mona. The most important of these is 
Vieques, situated 13 miles east of Puerto Rico. Itis 21 miles long 
and 6 miles wide, and is divided for its entire length by a chain 
of mountains. Its land is very fertile and adapted to the cultiva- 
tion of almost all the fruits and vegetables that grow in the West 
Indies. Cattle are raised and sugar cultivated. The mountains 
are covered with timber forests. It has a population of some 
6,000. The town, Isabel Segunda, is on the north, and the port is 
unsafe in times of northerly winds, like all the anchorages on that 
side. The few ports on the south are better, the best being Punta 
Arenas. Not long ago there were two importing and exporting 
houses on the island of Vieques; but, on account of the long 







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MONA ISLAND 

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1892 










MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 21 



period of drought and the high duties of foreign imported goods, 
trade has decreased to local consumption only. All supplies are 
brought from San Juan, the majority being of American origin. 
The climate is fine and maybe considered healthy; there have 
never been any contagious diseases. 

Vieques was temporarily occupied during the two centuries pre- 
ceding the present by the English and French, but is now entirely 
under Spanish dominion. Its riches and population are develop- 
ing from day to day in an admirable manner. Its government is 
politico-military, exercised by a colonel. It has a well-built church 
of masonry at the town of Isabel Segunda. 

On the southern coast, opposite the barbor of Ponce, and appar- 
ently joined to Puerto Rico by a reef, is the Caja de Muerto Island, 
in which there is a good anchoring ground. Its coasts abound in 
fish and are surrounded by keys. 

To the west of Cape Rojo is the island of Mona, of volcanic 
origin. Its coasts rise perpendicularly to a great height above the 
sea level. It is inhabited by a few fishermen and abounds in 
goats, bulls, and swine in a wild state. 

To the north-northeast of the foregoing and opposite Cape Bar- 
rionuevo is Monito Island. It is a small and elevated rock, inhab- 
ited by innumerable water fowl. 

Opposite San Francisco Point is the small island of Deshecho, 
some 2 square kilometers in extent and covered with trees of 
thick foliage. 






99 



MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 



Table of distances between principal cities. 
[In miles.] 



Adjuntas. 



44 


Aquadilla. 




















24 


30 


Arecibo. 


60 


36 


66 


Bayamon. 


48 


130 


94 


28 


Cayey. 


27 


76 


40 


42 


16 


Coamo. 


98 


104 


74 


38 


45 


61 


Eajardo. 


54 


140 


104 


38 


14 


26 


46 


Guayama. 


64 


102 


72 


33 


29 


44 


16 


29 


Eumacao. 


26 


17 


32, 


69 


76 


60 


106 


78 


102 


Mayaguez. 


16 


54 


40 


60 


35 


19 


80 


38 


63 


36 


Ponce. 


25 


26 


33 


99 


63 


47 


108 


66 


91 


8 


28 


San German. 


66 


81 


50 


6 


37 


48 


36 


49 


42 


102 


70 


115 


San Juan de Puerto Rico 


44 


20 


20 


17 


45 


24 


56 


44 


50 


54 


40 


54 


23 J VegaBaja. 


18 


38 


38 


104 


52 


36 


97 


54 


79 


22 


16 


15 


82 58 Tauco. 



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NORTH COAST OF PUERTO RICO 

FORT ARECIBO 

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MILITARY NOTES ON PUERTO RICO. 23 



CITIES, TOWNS, MUNICIPAL JURISDICTIONS 
(AYUNTAMIENTOS), ETC. 

Adjuntas. — A town of 2,320 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 18,820; situated 15^ miles from Ponce. It has a post- 
oftice and telegraph station. 

Aguada. — A town of 2,563 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 9,674 ; situated 5 miles from Aguadilla, following the wagon 
road along the coast to the south. It has a post-office. 

It may be considered as the oldest town on the island. It is the 
place where Columbus touched when, during his second voyage, 
he explored the island of Borinquen. Ponce de Leon also landed 
here with the intention of exploring and settling the island. 

Aguadilla. — A city of 5,325 inhabitants, of whom 4,200 are white 
and 1,125 colored. The municipal jurisdiction has 16,085 inhab- 
itants — 11,100 white and 4,985 colored. It is the capital and port 
of the judicial district of its name, and is situated 81 miles from 
San Juan. The climate is hot but healthy, and there yellow fever 
seldom -appears. It has a post-office and telegraph station. 

It has one of the most picturesque aspects of any town in the 
country. It is situated on the shore between Cape Borinquen and 
Culebrinas River, at the foot of Jaicoa Mountain, stretching 
along in a narrow strip between the sea and the latter. The 
mountain is very steep, crowned with leafy trees, and on its 
slopes are many orange and lemon trees, palms, etc. A stream 
of crystalline water flows from a spring about half way up its 
side, and passing through Fuente, Mirador, and Comercio streets 
of the town, empties into the sea. 

To add to the scenic beauty of the town and mountain a church 
rises from the mountain side near the source of the stream men- 
tioned. It is of antique construction and has two steeples, and, 
although old, is in good repair; there is a bell in one steeple and 
a clock in the other. 

The town hall is of rubble masonry and has three stories. The 
basement is used for a jail, the first floor for municipal offices and 
the telegraph station, and the second by the police forces. It was 
built in 1859. 

The custom-house is also of masonry, one story high in front 
and two in the rear. The lower story is used for offices, the 
employees residing in the upper. 

There is a small fort at the extreme north of the town which 
contributes to the beauty of the picture which the latter offers 
when seen from the sea. it is called Fort Concepcion, and is 
armed with 11 guns. 

Aguas Buenas. — A town of 1,425 inhabitants, 793 of whom are 
white and 632 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 
7,486 inhabitants, of whom 2,728 are white and 4,758 colored. It 
is situated 9 miles from Cayey. The nearest railroad station is 
San Juan, 24 miles distant. There is a wagon road to Caguas, 



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24 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

which joins the central highway. There is a telegraph station 
and post office. 

Aibonito. — A town of 2,200 inhabitants, the chief town of a 
jurisdiction of 6,094 inhabitants, of whom 3,900 are white and 
2,194 colored. Central highway from San Juan to Ponce. It has 
a post-office and telegraph station. 

Anasco. — A town of 4,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 13,015; situated 6 miles from Mayagiiez. It has a post- 
office and telegraph station. 

Arecibo. — A town of from 6,000 to 7,000 inhabitants, with a 
jurisdiction numbering 29,722; it is situated on the north coast of 
Puerto Rico, on a peninsula formed by the sea and by the river of 
its name; it faces the Atlantic Ocean, and is some 50 miles dis- 
tant by rail from San Juan. It is similar to all Spanish towns, 
with a plaza surrounded by the church and other public build- 
ings in the center, and streets running from it in right angles, 
forming regular squares. The buildings are constructed of wood 
and brick. Its church is of naissant construction, and cost 23,000 
pesos. The town hall dates from 1867; it is of rabble masonry, 
of two stories, and is spacious enough to accommodate a justice 
court, the telegraph station, and jail, and the officers belonging to 
the latter. The theater is of wood, but is a handsome edince. 
The custom-house and the barracks of the infantry aud civil 
guard are also of wood, but are airy and of spacious proportions. 
The harbor is poor, being nothing more than an open roadstead 
exposed to the full force of the ocean, in which vessels, during 
northerly winds, can hardly lie in safety. Close inshore on one 
side dangerous reefs stretch, a constant menace to vessels if the 
anchor does not hold. Into this harbor empties a narrow and 
shallow stream called the Rio Grande de Arecibo. Goods are con- 
veyed on this river to and from the town in flat-bottomed boats, 
with the aid of long poles and by dint of much pushing and 
patience. At the bar of the river everything is again transferred 
into lighters, and thence to vessels. It is a tedious aud expensive 
process. However, Arecibo is quite an important port. The want 
of good roads in the island makes such a place as Arecibo far 
more important than it would naturally be. There is a railroad 
to San Juan, and a post-office and telegraph station. 

The environs are extremely picturesque, and have a peculiar fea- 
ture which renders them worthy of a visit. About 1\ miles south- 
east of the town, in the place called " El Concejo," there is a rock 
about 108 yards high, cut off vertically. About one-third the way 
up from the bottom is the entrance to a grotto, covered with 
brambles, and about \\ yards high by 3 wide. It has a number of 
caverns and arches, stalactites, and wonderful curiosities, etc., 
peculiar to caves generally. 

The whole valley of the Arecibo is picturesque. Descending 
from the mountain of Utuado the whole course of the river pre- 
sents itself to the view. On either side of its voluminous course 
are a number of streams forming beautiful cascades, and, while 



r.Go'Bittenc'v 




No. 1382 



NORTH COAST OF PUERTO RICO 

FORT ARECIBO 



A 



vV 




NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 25 

delighting the traveler, they also serve to irrigate the intermediate 
valleys which extend to the river. The latter becomes obstructed* 
at the farther end and grows sluggish, its waters during freshets 
overflowing both banks and fertilizing the land for pastures, 
which are always covered with cattle, mules, and horses, the best 
on the island. In the center of these meadows are seen the homes 
of the landowners, surrounded by the leafy banana trees, tall 
palms, and some sugar, coffee, and cotton plantations. The limits 
of each proprietor are marked by barriers of orange, lemon, and 
other trees which the fertile land produces in exquisite variety, 
the result being the most delightful and charming country 
imaginable. 

Arroyo. — Arroyo, in the judicial district of Guayama (southeast 
portion), is a small seaport of about 1,200 inhabitants. It was 
founded in 1885. The annual exports to the Uuited States aver 
age 7,000 to 10,000 heads of sugar, 2,000 to 5,000 casks of molasses, 
and 50 to 150 casks and barrels of bay rum. Its jurisdiction has 
5,614 inhabitants. It is situated 5 miles from Guayama and 54£ 
from San Juan. It has a post-office. 

It is one of the brightest looking towns on the island, not only 
on account of its handsome harbor, but the aspect of its houses, 
almost all of which are of wood and surrounded by gardens. The 
church, which has two steeples, is small but very pretty. 

The caves of Aguas Buenas, situated in the Sumidero ward, 
have a curious feature; they run under the Cagiiitas River, a dis- 
tance of over 400 yards. There are three of them, called, respect- 
ively, Oscura, Clara, and Ermita. 

Barceloneta. — A town of 1,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 7,000, situated on the north coast of the province. It 
has a railroad, station and a post-office. 

Barranquilas. — A town of 688 inhabitants — 104 white and 284 
colored. Chief town of a jurisdiction of 6,754 inhabitants, of 
whom 4,282 are White and 2,472 colored. It has a post-office. The 
nearest railroad station is Cantano, 284- miles distant. 

Barros. — A town of 650 inhabitants, of whom 421 are white and 
229 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 13,000 inhab- 
itants, and is situated 31 miles from Ponce. It has a post-office 
and telegraph station. 

Bay anion. — A town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 15,167, situated 6 miles from San Juan. There is a 
belt line railroad and one to San Juan. There is a post-office and 
telegraph station. It is the capital of the principal department of 
the island, and is 5 miles from the north coast, south of the capi- 
tal, and has east of it the town of Rio Piedras, which is connected 
with San Juan by a steam tramway. It was founded in 1772, and 
is now a rich and important place. Its principal streets are those 
of Puerto Rico, Comercio, and. La Palma. The town hall has two 
stories, is built of rubble masonry, and has connected with it a 
barracks and jail. 

Cabo Bojo. — A town of 2,735 inhabitants, of whom 1,702 are white 



26 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

and 1,033 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 16,775 
inhabitants, and is situated 8 miles from San German. It has a 
post-office and telegraph station. 

Caguas. — A town of 4,340 inhabitants, of whom 1,536 are white? 
and 2,804 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 15,129| 
inhabitants, 6,824 white and 8,305 colored. There is a post-office 
and a telegraph station. 

Camuy. — A town of 956 inhabitants, 750 white and 206 colored. J 
Chief town of a jurisdiction of 10,342 inhabitants, of whom 9,8631 
are white and 479 colored. It is situated 9* miles from Arecibo.l 
There is a railroad station, a telegraph station, and a post-office. I 

Carolina. — A town of 5,052 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num-| 
bering 10,919, situated 25 kilometers from San Juan. There is a 
local highway and a post-office and telegraph station. 

Cayey. — A town of 3,895 inhabitants, of whom 2,700 are white) 
and 1,195 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 14,257] 
inhabitants, 9,500 white and 4,757 colored. It is situated 37 miles! 
from San Juan and 14 from Guayama. Wagon road from Sanj 
Juan to Ponce. The nearest railroad station is Canguas. There 1 
is a post-office and telegraph station. 

Ceiba. — A town of 744 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction number- j 
iug 4,142, situated 17 miles from Humacao. There is a wagon] 
road to Fajardo and Naguabo. It has a post-office. 

Ciales. — A town and jurisdiction of 15,000 inhabitants, situated 
19 miles from Arecibo. It has a post-office. 

Cidra. — A town of 2,400 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num-j 
bering 8,000, situated 6 miles from Cayey. It has a post-office. 

Coamo. — A village of 2,206 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- j 
bering 10,482. It is the capital of the judicial district of its 
name. There is a telegraph station. 

Comeiro (formerly Sabana del Palmar). — A municipal jurisdic-; 
tion of 6,650 inhabitants, situated 17 miles from San Juan. It' 
has a post-office. 

Corozal. — A town and jurisdiction of 11,551 inhabitants, situa- 
ted 22 miles from San Juan. It has a post-office and telegraph 
station. 

Dorado. — A town of 3,985 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num-j 
bering 3,985: situated 4f miles from San Juan. It has a railroad! 
station, post-office, and telegraph station. 

Fajardo.— A town of 3,376 inhabitants, of whom 1,776 are white 
and 1,600 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 8,779 ' 
inhabitants, of whom 4,891 are white and 3,888 colored. It is sit- 
uated 15£ miles from Humacao on the east coast of the island. 
The port is handsome, with a third-class light-house at the 
entrance at the point called Cabezas de San Juan, and a custom- 
house open to universal commerce. The town is about 1£ miles 
from the bay. The only important industry of the district is the 
manufacture of muscovado sugar, to which most of the planters 
devote themselves. Shooks, hickory hoops, pine boards, and pro- 
visions come from the United States in considerable quantities. 
Sugar and molasses are exported, and occasionally tortoise shell. 






PUERTO 
DE OCTANICA. 

South Side of Porto Rice 









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PUERTO 
DE GUANICA. 

South Side of Porto Rico. 

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in 1875. 

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PUERTO DE OITAJMCA 







Fronton d^laB-cea 



NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 27 

The climate is temperate and healthy. It has a post-office and 
telegraph station. It dates from 1774. 

Its church is of masonry, with a steeple with clock and bell, 

and was built in 1895, at which date the town hall was also built. 

, This town was besieged on November 14, 1824, by Commodore 

Porter, but the inhabitants showed such a disposition to resist 

that he put to sea again. 

Two conflagrations, in April of 1832 and 1833, respectively, 
destroyed a large part of the town, which, however, is to-day 
visibly progressing just as the others of the island. 

Guanica. — A small town of 1,000 inhabitants, on southern coast, 
about 6 miles south of Yauco. of which city it forms the port, 
and with which it is connected by a good road practicable in dry 
weather. It is situated on the Bay of Guanica, which is one of 
\ the best ports in the whole island. The banks to the right are 
steep and form a good natural wharf. Three vessels can lie along- 
side and unload by means of gang plank. Vessels of 30 feet 
I draft can easily enter bay and proceed close inshore. No fortifi- 
cations or mines. 
Guayama. — A village of 4,500 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
j numbering 12,884. It is the chief town of the judicial district of 
its name, and is situated on the south coast 49 miles from San 
Juan. It has a telephone, a railroad station, a post-office, and a 
telegraph station. It was founded in 1736. 

Its church is one of the finest on the island, being rich in altars 
I and ornaments. It was constructed in 1873, with 20 yards front 
; by 44 deep, and it cost 49,000 pesos. The town hall is a good 
1 building of two stories, of which the upper is occupied by the 
! offices of the municipal council, and the lower by the telegraph 
station and police quarters. 

Guayanilla. — A town of 600 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 7,833, situated 14 miles from Ponce. It is a seaport, 
and has a post-office and telegraph station. There is a wagon 
road to Ponce, Yauco, and Pefmelas. 

Gurabo. — A town of 870 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction number- 
ing 6,366. It has a post-office and telegraph station. 

Hatillo. — A town of 416 inhabitants, chief town of a jurisdic- 
tion of 9,140 inhabitants, situated 54^ miles from San Juan and 5.} 
miles from Arecibo. It has a post-office. 

Sato Grande. — A town of 1,994 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 12,618, situated 19 miles from Cayey. There is a post- 
office and telegraph station. 

Sormlgueros. — A town and jurisdiction of 3,023 inhabitants, situ- 
ated 7-J miles from San German. It has a post-office and telegraph 
I station. 

Sumacao. — A village of 5,765 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
I numbering 14,726, situated 47 miles from San Juan. It is a de- 
partment capital and capital of the judicial district of its name. 
The nearest railroad station is Naguabo. There is a post-office 
and telegraph station. 
This village, founded in 1793, is about 3 miles from the coast on 



28 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

the river of its name. It has a spacious and beautiful square, 
which, together with its church, ranks among the first in the 
island. The church is of modern construction, having been fin- 
ished in 1877 at a cost of 48,000 pesos. 

The town hall and jail constitute a good building of masonry, 
in which are located also the municipal court and the guard corps. 
It was finished in 1849, and its cost was 26,470 pesos. The bar- 
racks and the hospital of San Vicente de Paul are also handsome 
buildings of masonry, the former built in 1862 and the latter in 
1867. 

Isabel a. — A municipal jurisdiction of 12,502 inhabitants, situated 
10£ miles from Aguadilla. It has good buildings of modern con- 
struction. There is a wagon road to Aguadilla and Quebradillas. 
There is a post-office. 

Juana Diaz. — A village and municipal jurisdiction of 21,032 
inhabitants. It is situated 8 miles from Ponce and 72 miles from 
San Juan. It has a post-office and railroad station. 

Juncos — A municipal jurisdiction of 7,282 inhabitants. There 
is a post-office and telegraph station. 

Lares. — A municipal jurisdiction of 17,020 inhabitants, of whom 
15,005 are white and. 2,015 colored. Poblacion is the chief ward 
of the jurisdiction, with 1,575 inhabitants, situated 24 miles from 
Aguadilla. There is a wagon road to Aguadilla, Arecibo, and 
Mayagiiez. There is a market every Sunday ; there are casinos, 
a municipal library, and a post-office. 

Las Marias. — A town of 750 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 9,700; situated 15£ miles from Mayagiiez. It has two thea- 
ters and two casinos. The nearest railroad station is in the ward 
of Naranjales, at a distance of 6 miles. There is a post-office and 
telegraph station. 

Loiza. — A town of 907 inhabitants, chief town of a jurisdiction 
of 9,561; situated 19 miles from San Juan. The nearest railroad 
station is Rio Piedras, 19 miles distant. It has a post-office. 

Luquillo. — A town of 1,560 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 6,893 ; situated 31 miles from Humacao. Gold exists in the 
sands of its rivers. The nearest railroad station is Carolina, 19 
miles distant. It has a post-office. 

Manati. — A town and jurisdiction of 11,967 inhabitants, situated 
17 miles from Arecibo. There is a railroad station, a post office, 
and a telegraph station. 

Maricao. — A municipal jurisdiction of 8,000 inhabitants, situated 
9£ miles from San German and 15^ from Mayagiiez. There is a 
wagon road to Mayagiiez and Las Marias. 

Maunabo. — A town of 903 inhabitants, of whom 346 are white 
and 567 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 5,689 in- 
habitants— 1,495 white and 4,194 colored. It is situated 24 miles 
from Guayama. There is a post-office and telegraph station. 

Mayagiiez. — A city of 11,615 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 28,026. The majority of the population is white. 11 
is the third city in importance of the island, being situated in the 







r 



f 
t 1 



TARY INFORMATION DIVISION 




WAR DEPARTMENT, ADJUTANT GENERAL'S OFFICE 



MILITARY INFORMATION DIVISION. 




NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 29 

west part, facing what is generally known as the "Mona Chan- 
nel.' 7 It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and is 102 miles 
from San Juan. Of industry there is little to he said, except that 
•there are three manufactories of chocolate, which is for local con- 
sumption. Sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts are 
exported largely, all except coffee principally to the United 
States. Of sugar the muscovado goes to the United States and 
the centrifugal to Spain. Mayagiiez is the second port for coffee, 
the average annual export being 170,000 hundredweights. The 
quality is of the best, ranging in price with Java and other first- 
rate brands. The lower grades are sent to Cuba. About 50,000 
bags of flour are imported into this port every year from the 
United States out of the 180,000 bags that are consumed in the 
whole island. The climate is excellent, the temperature never 
exceeding 90° F. The city is connected by tramway with the 
neighboring towns of Aguadilla, and a railroad is being con- 
structed to Lares, one of the largest interior towns. It has a civil 
and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three 
bridges, a handsome market, constructed of iron, a slaughter- 
house, recently constructed, a theater, etc., and a number of 
societies of instruction, recreation, and commerce. It has a post- 
office and telegraph station. It was founded in 1760, was given 
the title of villa (village) in 1836, and that of city in 1877. 

On the east and south it is bounded by the Hormigueros Moun- 
tains, on the north by those of Afiasco, and on the west by the 

i. The part comprised by the vega (plain) is very fertile, and 
here are grown all fruits of the island. The river, called also 
Mayagiiez, has not much water and divides the town in two parts. 
Its sands formerly yielded much gold, but to-day hardly any is 
found. The town is large, handsome, and very modern. There 
are no less than 37 streets and 3 squares — the Principal, the Mer- 
cado, and Iglesia — all adorned by pretty fountains. Two iron 
bridges called, respectively, Marina and Guenar, connect the two 
parts of the town. The former is some 33 yards long by 8 wide 
and was built in 1877, at a cost of 12,000 pesos. That of Guenar 
is only 19 yards long by 5 wide. It was finished in 1872 and cost 
3,791 pesos. 

The church was built iu 1760. It is of masonry, with two steeples 
and good altars. The town hall, situated on Principal square, is 
a good stone building of three stories. It has in it, besides the offices 
of the municipal council, the jail and telegraph station. It is a 
modern structure, was finished in 1815, and cost 25,000 pesos. An- 
nexed to it is the Casa del Key, built in 1832, and serving for offices 
of the military commandancy. 

The infantry barracks is also a building of modern construction, 
dating from 1818, and, though of simple architecture, it is very 
capacious. It has accommodations for lodging eight companies 
and has quarters for the chief and his aids, as well as other neces- 
sary arrangements. 

Among the buildings devoted to charity are the military hospi- 



30 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

tal and the San Antonio Asylum. The former is of masonry 3 two 
stories high, and owned by private parties. The second owes its 
origin to the charity of Antonio Blanes, who in 1865 donated this 
instruction to Mayagiiez, since which time it has been maintained 
by the charity of the inhabitants. 

The Spanish ultramariue, bureau, the public library, and the 
casino are deserving of a visit on account of the fine decorations 
of their rooms. 

The market is the best on the island. It is constructed of iron 
and stone and covers an area of over 1,500 square yards. It cost 
70,000 pesos. About 7 miles from Mayagiiez, across a rough and 
mountainous country, is the sanctuary of Montserrate. This wild- 
looking place is visited by many who go there as pilgrims, and 
many legends and traditions are told concerning it. 

The church is on top of a mountain. It is of masonry, quite 
capacious, and of agreeable aspect. From here is seen the most 
fertile and beautiful plain on the island, watered by the Juana- 
jibos and Boqueron rivers and inclosed by high mountain ridges, 
which send forth multitudes of streams, the plain being bounded 
by the sea and having in it the towns of Cabo Eojo and San 
German. 

Moco. — Village of 1,034 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 11,084, situated 4£ miles from the station of Aguadilla, 
with which it is connected by a wagon road. There is a post- 
office. 

Morovis. — A town of 619 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 8,234, situated 32 miles from Arecibo. It has a post-office. 

Nagudbo. — A town of 2,384 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 9,876, situated 9£ miles from Humacao, on the east side of 
the island; one of the best seaports of the island. It is the place 
where Columbus first arrived. It has a post-office and telegraph 
station. It was founded anew in 1821, because the town of this 
name situated in another locality had been destroyed. It has 
a handsome square with a fountain in its center, a church of 
masonry with two steeples, a town hall, and a hospital of wood. 

Naranjito. — A municipal jurisdiction of 5,825 inhabitants, situ- 
ated 21 miles from San Juan. 

PatiUas. — A municipal jurisdiction of 10,553 inhabitants, sit- 
uated 62 miles from Guayama. It has a post-office. 

Peiiuelas. — A town of 859 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 10,623 inhabitants, situated 10 miles from Ponce. 

Piedras. — A town of 1,200 inhabitants, of whom 900 are white 
and 300 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 8,545 
inhabitants, 5,698 white and 2,847 colored. It is situated 3f 
miles from Humacao, on the highway from San Juan to Humacao. 
There is a post-office. 

Ponce. — A city of 22,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 47,000. It is situated on the south coast of the island, on 
a plain, about 2 miles from the seaboard. It is the chief town of 
the judicial district of its name, and is 70 miles from San Juan. 





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NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 31 

It is regularly built, the central part almost exclusively of brick 
bouses and the suburbs of wood. It is tbe residence of tbe mili- 
tary commander, and tbe seat of an official cbamber of com- 
merce. There is an appellate criminal court, besides other courts ; 

2 churches, one Protestant, said to be the only one in the Spanish 
West Indies; 2 hospitals besides the military hospital, a home of 
refuge for old and poor, 2 cemeteries, 3 asylums, several casinos, 

3 theaters, a market, a municipal public library, 3 first-class hotels, 
3 barracks, a park, gas works, a perfectly equipped fire depart- 
ment, a bank, thermal and natural baths, etc. Commercially, 
Ponce is the second city of importance on the island. A fine road 
leads to the port (Playa), where all the import and export trade 
is transacted. Playa has about 5,000 inhabitants, and here are 
situated the custom-house, the office of the captain of the port, 
and all the consular offices. The port is spacious and will hold 
vessels of 25 feet draft. The climate, on account of the sea 
breezes during the day and land breezes at night, is not oppres- 
sive, but very hot and dry; and, as water for all purposes, includ- 
ing the fire department, is amply supplied by an aqueduct 4,442 
yards long, it is said that the city of Ponce is perhaps the 
healthiest place in the whole island. There is a stagecoach to 
San Juan, Mayagiiez, Guayama, etc. There is a railroad to Yauco, 
a post-office, and a telegraph station. 

It is believed that Ponce was founded in 1600; it was given the 
title of villa in 1848, and in 1877 tbat of city. Of its 34 streets 
the best are Mayor, Salud, Villa, Vives, Marina, and Comercio. 
The best squares are Principal and Las Delicias, which are sepa- 
rated by tbe church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. The church, 
as old as the town itself, began to be reconstructed in 1838 and 
was finished in 1847. It is 86 yards long by 43 broad, and has 
two steeples, rich altars, and fine ornaments. 

The Protestant church is of gothic architecture, of galvanized 
iron outside and wood within; it was built in 1874. 

The town hall, which also serves as a jail, is a good two-story 
building of masonry, and was finished in 1877. There are two 
barracks, one for infantry, with a capacity for 700 men, and an- 
other for cavalry. The former was constructed in 1849, and is 
two stories high, while the latter is a one- story structure belong- 
ing to the municipal council. 

The military hospital, of masonry, is situated on Castillo street, 
and has a capacity for 70 patients. 

The smallpox and pestilential hospitals are more simple and are 
situated outside the city limits. 

The albergue de Tricoche (hospital) was built with money left 
by Valentin Tricoche for this purpose in 1863. It is in the north- 
ern part of the town, is built of masonry on the doric order, with 
a porch supported by doric columns. It has a capacity for 60 
persons. 

The Damas Asylum is built of masonry, with an elegant porch, 
iron gate, and garden at its entrance. It is maintained by money 



32 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

left by various persons and by other charitable means, and will 
accommodate 12 men and 12 women, having, besides, 4 beds de- 
signed for sick seamen. 

The theater is called the Pearl, and it deserves this name, for it 
is the finest on the island. It has a sculptured porch, on the 
Byzantine order, with very graceful columns. It is mostly built 
of iron and marble and cost over 70,000 pesos. It is 52 yards deep 
by 29 wide. The iuside is beautiful, the boxes and seats roomy 
and nicely decorated. It may, by a mechanical arrangement, be 
converted into a dancing hall. 

About 1-J- miles northeast of the town are the Quintana thermal 
baths, in a building surrounded by pretty gardens. They are 
visited hy sufferers from rheumatism and various other diseases. 

The city of Ponce proper has no military defenses, but in the 
hills to the north of the town a series of earth intrenchments have 
lately been constructed. West of Ponce, where the railroad and 
military road touch the shore, earthworks have been constructed 
to guard this strategic point. There are about 30 mountain how- 
itzers in Ponce available for defense of the city and the railroad. 

Quebradillas. — A town of 1,055 inhabitants — 868 white and 187 
colored. Chief town of a jurisdiction of 5,899 inhabitants, of whom 
3,520 are white and 379 colored. It is situated 17£ miles from 
Aguadilla. It has a post-office. 

Eincon. — A town of 300 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 5,817, situated 15 miles from Mayaguez. There is a railroad 
station and a post-office. 

Eio Grande. — A town of 695 inhabitants, of whom 220 are white 
and 475 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 6,170 
inhabitants, 2,462 of whom are white and 3,726 colored. The 
town has 8 wards. It is situated 25 miles from San Juan. The 
nearest railroad station is Luquillo, 27 kilometers distant. There 
is a post-office. 

Eio Piedras. — A town of 1,054 inhabitants — 581 white and 473 
colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 9,010 inhabit- 
ants, of whom 3,482 are white and 5,528 colored. It is situated 7 
miles from San Juan, with which it is connected by a railroad. 
It has a theater and a casa de recreo for the governors of the 
province. There is a post-office and telegraph station. 

Its church was built in 1831 and has since received important 
repairs and improvements. It has 2 towers, is well proportioned, 
and finely ornamented. 

Sab ana Grande. — A municipal jurisdiction of 9,587 inhabitants, 
situated 18 miles from Mayaguez. It is on the highway from 
Mayaguez to Ponce. There is a post-office. 

Salinas. — A town of 655 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction num- 
bering 4,104 inhabitants, situated 22 miles from Cayey and 12 
miles from Guayarua. It has a good harbor a short distance from 
town. 

San German. — A city of 8,000 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 30,600: it is situated 115 miles from San Juan. It has 



IE DEPARTMENT, ADJUTANT ftFNFRAL'B OFFICE 



ILITARY INFORMATION DIVISION JUNEI 




PUERTO RICO 

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NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 33 

3 magnificent market places, a charity hospital, a seminary, good 
school buildings, theater, casino, etc. There is a railroad in con- 
struction, and a post-office and telegraph station. 

It is situated on a long, uneven hill, at the foot of which lies the 
beautiful valley of the Juanajibos and Boqueron rivers, which is 
made a beautiful garden by the orange, lemon, and tamarind trees, 
and various other plants growing here. Coffee, cotton, and cane 
are also raised. 

The town was founded in 1511 by Capt. Miguel Toro, and has 
enjoyed the title of city since 1877. Its principal streets are called 
Luna and Comercio. Its chief plaza is square and large in size; 
its church is quite regular and of old construction. There are 
two hospitals — one for men and one for women. The town hall is 
a good building, of masonry, two stories high, with a clock tower. 
Finally, the institution of second-grade instruction and the bar- 
racks of the infantry and civil guard merit mention. 

The inhabitants of San German have always been distinguished 
for their great love of country. When the English landed there 
in 1743 they were soon repulsed and driven off, with the loss of 
one vessel. Many persons have distinguished themselves for their 
bravery and patriotism. 

San Juan. — San Juan, the capital, is situated on the northern 
coast, on a long and narrow island, separated from the main island, 
at one end, by a shallow arm of the sea, over which is the bridge 
of San Antonio, connecting it with the mainland, which runs out 
at this point in a long sand spit, some 9 miles in length, appar- 
ently to meet the smaller islands. At the other end the island 
ends in a rugged bluff or promontory some hundred feet high and 
three-fourths of a mile distant from the main island. 

This promontory is crowned by Morro Castle, the principal 
fortification of the town. The form of the castle is that of an 
obtuse angle, with three tiers of batteries, placed one above the 
other, toward the sea, their fires crossing each other. Toward 
the city it has a wall, flanked by two bastions of heavy artillery, 
which dominates all of the intermediate space, which has the 
name of Morro, and also part of the city and the north shore of 
the sea. It has the usual barracks, large water tanks, ware- 
houses, chapel, and the necessary offices — all bombproof. A mine 
descends from it to the seashore, through the entrance of the port, 
its issue being defended by a battery. This enables troops to 
enter and leave the castle, to receive succor, etc. 

The site occupied by this important fortification was always 
regarded with preference by persons charged with the execution 
of works of defense for the town. It was originally only a bat- 
tery, but the importance of the point being soon realized, in 1581 
the plan of the fortress was drawn, and it has been gradually 
developed until it has reached its present stage of perfection. 

There is a revolving light-house placed on the top of the castle, 
rising to a height of 170 feet above the level of the sea. 

At the western end of the island on which San Juan is situated 

1676 3 



34 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

is the entrance to the harbor. On the right bank is the castle of 
San Juan de la Cruz, situated on the Cefiedo shoal, which is very 
dangerous during a north wind. The channel is narrow, with a 
rocky bottom, so close under the headland that one can almost leap 
ashore from a passing vessel. The water here is some 30 feet deep. 
To a mariner unacquainted with the locality, or when a " norther" 
is blowing, this entrance is one of difficulty and danger. 

Northeast of the city is the well-constructed castle of San Cris- 
tobal, facing the ocean. It defends the city on the land side, occu- 
pying the whole width of the islet from the bay to the outer sea, 
pointing its fire in all directions. Its structure is accommodated 
to the nature of the ground, which is uneven, sloping from the 
northern or outer sea part to the bay. On the highest part of the 
hill is the ramp, through which the castle is entered. It has two 
large bombproof barracks and everything necessary in the way 
of office and storeroom. Upon these barracks is erected the Ca- 
ballero Fort, with 22 cannon, whose fire dominates the city and 
its vicinity, on land and sea. Below the castle is the drill ground, 
with batteries directed toward the sea, the land, and the draw- 
bridge of the interior fosse. Then follow three large ravelins, 
viz, San Carlos, occupying the top of the hill; Principe, situated 
on the slope of the Cuesta, and Principal, on which is situated the 
drawbridge of the second fosse, giving issue to the counter trenches, 
to the covered way, and to the field, which is reached through the 
gate of Santiago. All of these fortifications are in great part cut 
out of solid rock, and from the sea they offer to the view three 
tiers of batteries, one above the other, their fire being thrown in 
all directions. 

This castle is connected with Morro Castle on the north by a 
wall of modern construction, there having been nothing on that 
side until the end of the past century but a few batteries, owing 
to the knowledge that the roughness of the coast rendered unnec- 
essary any greater fortification to prevent a landing. 

Starting from the southern part of San Cristobal Castle and 
following the edge of the bay, a line of bulwarks is encountered, 
being those of Santiago and San Pedro, the curtain being inter- 
rupted by the Espafia gate, after which follow the bulwark of 
San Justo and the gate of the same name, which forms an arch 
under the curtain; then follow the half bulwark of San Justo, 
the bulwark of La Palma or San Jose, the platform of Concep- 
cion, to the half bulwark and fortress of Santa Catalina, to-day 
(1887) the residence of the captain-general. From the fortress to 
the half bulwark of San Agustin to the west is found the gate of 
San Juan and then the platform of Santa Elena. 

The construction of these fortifications was begun in 1630 and 
they were finished about 1641, but not until 1771 were the San 
Cristobal Castle and the outworks built. These latter consist of 
a redan resting on the highest part of the glacis of San Cristobal 
and called Fort Abanico (fan), on account of having this form. 
Between the town and the San Antonio Bridge are three small 



NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 35 

advanced lines. One consists of a running ditch and the other 
two of loop-holed batteries. At the head of the bridge is situ- 
ated the San Antonio Fort. 

On the extreme east of the islet and near the bridge above men- 
tioned there is a small fort called San Jeroninio, which defends 
the passage over the bridge. 

Between Morro Castle and the north coast near Palo Seco, there 
is in the middle of the entrance to the bay a small fort called 
Canuelo; it is oblong, well fortified, and by its position obliges 
vessels, attempting to force an entrance to the port, to pass little 
out of rifle range between its fire and that of Morro Castle. For- 
merly, and in case of war, a chain was thrown out between this 
and Morro Castle to close the entrance to the port. 

After rounding the bluff one finds a broad and beautiful bay, 
landlocked and with a good depth of water, which is being in- 
creased by dredging. It is by far the best harbor in Puerto Rico, 
and probably as good a one as can be found in the West Indies. 
However, it has its drawbacks. Sailing vessels are frequently 
detained by the northerly winds during the winter months, and 
even steamers with a draft of over 20 feet are sometimes delayed; 
but these occasions are rare. When they do occur, the "boca" or 
entrance to the harbor is a mass of seething, foaming water, and 
presents an imposing spectacle. To see steamers of 16 to 18 feet 
draft enter into a severe "norther" is a sight to be remembered, 
as the great waves lift them up and seem about to hurl them for- 
ward to destruction. At such times there is need of a stanch 
vessel, steady nerves, and a captain well acquainted with the 
channel, as no pilot will venture out. 

The island upon which the city stands is shaped much like an 
arm and hand ; it is about 2\ miles long and averages less than one- 
fourth of a mile in width. The greatest width is a little over half 
a mile in the portion representing the hand, which also contains 
the major part of the city. 

The mountains of Bay onion, which lie to the southwest of San 
Juan, are distant about 8 to 10 kilometers in a straight line from 
the city, and can be surmounted from the south. To reach them it 
is necessary to disembark to the west of San Juan, on the north 
coast of the island, between tbe towns of Dorado and Palo Seco. 
These mountains command the city. 

San Juan is a perfect specimen of a walled town, with portcul- 
lis, moat, gates, and battlements. The wall surrounding this 
town is defended by several batteries. Facing the harbor are 
those of San Fernando, Santa Catalina, and Santa Toribio. Look- 
ing toward the land side is Fort Abanico, and toward the ocean 
the batteries of San Antonio, San Jose, and Santa Teresa, and 
Fort Piincesa. The land part has two ditches, or cuts, which are 
easy to inundate. The fort and bridge of San Antonio, that of 
San Geronimo, and the Escambron battery, situated on a tongue 
of land which enters the sea. Built over two hundred and fifty 
years ago, the city is still in good condition and repair. The walls 



36 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

are picturesque, and represent a stupendous work and cost in 
themselves. Inside the walls the city is laid off in regular squares, 
six parallel streets running in the direction of the length of the 
island and seven at right angles. 

The peninsula on which San Juan is situated is connected with 
the mainland by three bridges. The oldest, that of San Antonio, 
carries the highway across the shallow San Antonio Channel. It 
is a stone-arched bridge about 350 yards long including the ap- 
proaches. By the side of this bridge is one for the railroad and 
one for the tramway which follows the main military highway to 
Eio Piedras. 

Among the buildings the following are notable: The palace of 
the captain-general, the palace of the intendencia, the town hall, 
military hospital, jail, Ballaja barracks, theater, custom-house, 
cathedral, Episcopal palace, and seminary. There is no univer- 
sity or provincial institute of second-grade instruction, and only 
one college, which is under the direction of Jesuit priests. The 
houses are closely and compactly built of brick, usually of two 
stories, stuccoed on the outside and painted in a variety of colors. 
The upper floors are occupied by the more respectable people, 
while the ground floors, almost without exception, are given up 
to the negroes and the poorer class, who crowd one upon another 
in the most appalling manner. 

The population within the walls is estimated at 20,000 and most 
of it lives on the ground floor. In one small room, with a flimsy 
partition, a whole family will reside. The ground floor of the whole 
town reeks with filth, and conditions are most unsanitary. In a 
tropical country, where disease readily prevails, the consequences 
of such herding may be easily inferred. There is no running 
water in the town. The entire population depend upon rain 
water, caught upon the flat roofs of the buildings and conducted 
to the cistern, which occupies the greater part of the inner court- 
yard that is an essential part of Spanish houses the world over, 
but that here, on account of the crowded conditions, is very small. 
There is no sewerage, except for surface water and sinks, while 
vaults are in every house and occupy whatever remaining space 
there may be in the patios not taken up by the cisterns. The 
risk of contaminating the water is very great, and in dry seasons 
the supply is entirely exhausted. Epidemics are frequent, and 
the town is alive with vermin, fleas, cockroaches, mosquitoes, 
and dogs. 

The streets are wider than in the older part of Havana, and 
will admit two carriages abreast. The sidewalks are narrow, and 
in places will accommodate but one person. The pavements are 
of a composition manufactured in England from slag, pleasant and 
even, and durable when no heavy strain is brought to bear upon 
them, but easily broken, and unfit for heavy traffic. The streets 
are swept once a day by hand, and, strange to say, are kept very 
clean. 

From its topographical situation the town should be healthy, 



NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 37 

but it is not. The soil under the city is clay mixed with lime, so 
hard as to he almost like rock. It is consequently impervious to 
water and furnishes a good natural drainage. 

The trade wind blows strong and fresh, and through the harbor 
runs a stream of sea water at a speed of not less than three miles 
an hour. With these conditions no contagious diseases, if prop- 
erly taken care of, could exist; without them the place would be 
a veritable plague spot. 

Besides the town within the walls there are small portions just 
outside, called the Marina and Puerta de Tierra, containing two 
or three thousand inhabitants each. There are also two suburbs, 
one, San Turce, approached by the only road leading out of the 
city, and the other, Catano, across the bay, reached by ferry. The 
Marina and the two suburbs are situated on sandy points or spits, 
and the latter are surrounded by mangrove swamps. 

The entire population of the city and suburbs, according to the 
census of 1887, was 27,000. It is now (1896) estimated at 30,000. 
One-half of the population consists of negroes and mixed races. 

There is but little manufacturing, and it is of small importance. 
The Standard Oil Company has a small refinery across the bay, in 
which crude petroleum brought from the United States is refined. 
Matches are made, some brooms, a little soap, and a cheap class of 
trunks. There are also ice, gas, and electric-light works. 

The climate is warm and agreeable for nine months of the year, 
although one is subject, from the sudden changes, to cold and 
catarrh. The natives are particularly susceptible to this class of 
ailment, and to consumption and bronchitis. 

The following authorities and corporations have their residence 
in the capital: A lieutenant-general, a field marshal, second in 
command in the province and governor of the garrison ; a brigadier- 
general of the navy, chief of the maritime province, one of engi- 
neers, and another of artillery: a bishop of the diocesis, a subin- 
tendant, a subinspector of military sanitation, judge-advocate, 
war commissary, colonel, subinspector of the tercio of civil guard, 
and a comandancia of the same, as well as of artillery and engi- 
neers, a court, provincial deputation, treasury administration, etc. 

Steamers frequently leave for Cuba observing the following 
itinerary: San Thomas (Jamaica), San Juan de Puerto Rico, 
Aguadilla, Mayagiiez, Puerto Plata (Santo Domingo), Santiago 
de Cuba, Baracoa, Jibara, Nuevitas, and Havana. With rare 
exceptions the steamers running from Spain to Cuba stop at 
Puerto Rico. The government mail ships (Antonio Lopez Com- 
pany) stop about ten hours, disembark mail and passengers, take 
on passengers, cargo, and mail for Havana, and continue on to 
Cuba. The mail ship which leaves Havana for Spain the 5th of 
each month, stops at San Juan de Puerto Rico, taking on board 
the mail and the passengers who are traveling on government 
business. Many foreign vessels also stop in the harbor. A sub- 
marine cable connects the island with Spain by the following 
route: From Puerto Rico to Kingston (Jamaica), thence via Cien-' 



38 NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 

fuegos or Batabano to Havana, thence via Cayo Hueso to the 
United States, from whence it goes to England and finally to 
Spain. 

Railroads: To Ponce via Arecibo, via Cagnas and Cayey, via 
Humacao and Caguas. There is a post-office and telegraph station. 

San Sebastian. — A town of 1,200 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 16,000; situated 14 riailes from Aguadilla. It has a 
post-office and telegraph station. 

Santa Isabel. — A municipal jurisdiction of 3,200 inhabitants, 
situated 63 miles from San Juan and 16 miles from Ponce. It has 
a post-office and telegraph station. 

San Turce. — The fifth district from the capital, with 3,640 inhab- 
itants. It is situated 3 miles from San Juan. 

Toa Alta. — A town of 1,100 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 7,821 ; situated 15^ miles from San Juan. There is a 
second-class wagou road. The town has a post-office. 

Toa Baja. — A municipal jurisdiction of 3,481 inhabitants, situ- 
ated 10| miles from San Juan. It has a post-office. 

Trujillo Alto. — A town of 1,800 inhabitants, with a jurisdiction 
numbering 4,072; situated 15 miles from San Juan. The nearest 
railroad station is Rio Piedras, 1\ miles distant. There is a post- 
office. 

Utuado. — A town of 3,738 inhabitants, of whom 2,123 are white 
aud 1,615 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 30,045 
inhabitants, 22,757 of whom are white and 5,306 colored. It is 
situated 56 miles from San Juan and 14 miles from Arecibo. There 
is a wagon road to the capital. There is a post-office and a tele- 
graph station. 

Vega Alta. — A town of 985 inhabitants, of whom 225 are white 
and 760 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 5,420 
inhabitants, 1,147 white and 4,275 colored. It is situated 22 miles 
from San Juan. The nearest railroad station is that of Vega Baja, 
12^ miles distant. A first-class wagon road leads to this station. 
There is a post-office. 

Villa de la Vena Baja. — A village of 2,531 inhabitants, chief town 
of the judicial district of its name. The municipal jurisdiction 
has 10,650 inhabitants. It is situated 23^ miles from San Juan. 
There is a railroad station, a post-office, and a telegraph station. 

Its church, which forms one of the facades fronting on the 
beautiful plaza, is in its proportions and general appearance one 
of the finest in the island. Its two towers are elegant, one con- 
taining a bell and the other the public clock. Opposite the church 
is the town hall, a tine building of rubble masonry of one story, 
but large enough to hold, besides the municipal offices, the jail 
and police station. The aspect of the square and of the whole 
village is very agreeable. 

Tabucoa. — A town of 4,178 inhabitants, of whom 2,152 are white 
and 2,000 colored. It is the chief town of a jurisdiction of 12,862 
inhabitants, of whom 5,655 are white and 7,207 are colored. It is 
siiuated 10 miles from Humacao, on the road from Humacao to 
Guayama. It has a post-office and a railroad station. 



NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 39 

Yauco. — A municipal jurisdiction of 24,500 inhabitants, situated 
15£ miles from San German. It has a post-office and a telegraph 
station. 

It has a fine climate, good running water in abundance, is 50 
meters above sea level, and has four commanding mountains. 
Here are also warehouses of stone and brick, capable of holding 
from 5,000 to 6,000 men. These are used to dry coffee, and are, or 
will be, vacant. 

There is a large supply of pack mules and carts, which can be 
gotten at any moment for the handling of freight and supplies 
for the march to the capital. 



40 



NOTES ON LOCALITIES. 



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STATIONS AND STRENGTH OF SPANISH TROOPS 
IN PUERTO RICO. 



TERRITORIAL DIVISION. 

This captain-generalcy is divided into one military government 
and eight military commanderies, which are as follows : 



Military government and commands. 



Judicial districts. 



Military government of the town of San Juan 
Military commands of the departments of — 

Bayamon 

Ar'ecibo 

Aguadilla 

Mayagiiez 

Ponce 

Guayama 

Humacao 

Island of Vieques 



Capital. 

Capital and Vega Baja. 

Areciho. Utuado, and Agua- 
dilla. 

Aguadilla. 

Mayagiiez and San German. 

Ponce, Coamo, and San Ger- 
man. 

Guayama, Coamo, Cayey, and 
Humacao. 

Humacao and Guayama. 

Humacao. 



CENTRAL BUREAUS. 

Captain- general. — Lieut. Gen. Sahas Marin y Gonzalez. 

Aids: Lieutenant of Infantry ; Captain of Infantry Jose 

Gonzalez de Gelahert ; Captain of Infantry A] herto Gonzalez de 
Gelabert; Alvaro Gonzalez Martinez. 

Second in command in the district. — General of Division Ricardo 
Ortega y Diez. 

Aids: Lieutenant-colonel of Cavalry ; Major of Cavalry 

Miguel Niifiez de Prado. 

GENERAL STAFF OF THE DISTRICT. 



General staff corps. — In command: Col. Juan Camo y Soler. 
Second in command: Lieut. Col. Francisco Larrea Liso. Maj. 
44 



SPANISH FORCES. 45 

Jose de Elola y Gutierrez; Capt. Antonio Maury Rodriguez; Cap- 
tain 

Auxiliary corps of military offices. — Third Recorder Yenancio 
Moreno Carpintero; First Official Nicasio Contreras Ortiz; First 
Official Julian Moreno Molina; Second Official Benito Sanchez 
MuTioz; Third Official Sebastian Escalona y Mons. 

Auxiliary (representative of the general military chest of the 
colonies). — Captain of infantry, Miguel de Lasheras Grasite. 

Permanent judges of the captain-generalcy . — Major of Cavalry 
Joaquin Palomino Diaz; Major of Infantry Santiago Escudero 
Ategui; Captain of Infantry Cecilio Martinez Jorcada; Captain 
of Infantry Jose Buj Piquer. 

PRINCIPAL COMMANDERY, SUBINSPECTION OF ARTILLERY. 

Principal commandant, subinspector. — Col. Jose Sanchez de Cas- 
tilla. 

Secretary. — Capt. Enrique Barbaza Montero. 

GENERAL COMMANDERY, SUBINSPECTION OF ENGINEERS. 

Principal commandant , subinspector . — Col. Jose Laguna Saint-Just. 

In charge of documents. — Lieutenant Colouel , Maj. Rafael 

Ravena Clavero, Capt. Joaquin Barco Pons, Capt. Francisco 
Caiiizares Moyano, Capt. Joaquin Gisbert Antequera. 

MILITARY SUBINTENDENCY. 

Military subintendant. — Subintendant Francisco de la Vega y 
L6pez. 

Chief of the section of inspection. — Commissary (First Class) Pedro 
Recas y Espafiol. 

Commissary of reviews. — Commissary (Second Class) Marceliano 
Cancio y Abajo; Commissary (Second Class) Ramon Poveda Baha- 
monde; First Official Eduardo Perez Fillol; Third Official Luis 
Hidalgo y Salas; Third Official Alberto Belenquer Pielman; 
Third Official Ramon Tonias Ferrer. 

DIRECTION AND SUBINSPECTION OF MEDICAL SERVICE. 

Director and subinspector. — Surgeon Subinspector (First Class) 
Jose Battle y Prat. 

Secretary. — Chief Surgeon Pedro Pinar Moya. 

AUDITORLAT. 

Auditor of division. — Jos6 Sanchez del Aguila y Leon. 
Lieutenant Auditor (First Class). — Onofre Sastre Canet. 
Lieutenant Auditor (Third Class). — Jose Cabezas Piquer. 



46 SPANISH FORCES. 



MILITARY INSTRUCTION. 

PREPARATORY ACADEMY. 

Director. — Colonel of Artillery Jose" Sanchez de Castilla. 
Professor. — Captain of Artillery Ramon Aclia Caamano, Captain 
of Artillery Fernando Sarraga y Rengel. 

TOWN OF SAN JUAN. 

Miliary governor. — General (Second in Command) Ricardo Or- 
tega y Diez. 

Secretary of the military government. — Lieutenant-Colonel of In- 
fantry Francisco Sanchez Apellaniz. 

Sergeant-major. — Lieutenant-Colonel of Infantry Francisco Fi- 
gueroa Valdes. 

First aid. — Captain of Infantry Rafael Noriega Garcia. 

Second aid. — First Lieutenant of Infantry Juan Diaz Sevas. 

DEPARTMENT OF ARTILLERY. 

Colonel. — The colonel of the principal commandery of the sub- 
inspection. 



Director. — The director of the principal commandery of the sub- 
inspection. 

Documents. — Major ; Captain of Works Ramon Acha 

Caamano. 

Interventor. — Commissary (Second Class) Ramon Poveda Baha- 
monde. 

In charge of property and paymaster. — Third Official of Military 
Administration Luis Hidalgo y Salas. 

DEPARTMENT OF ENGINEERS. 

Colonel. — The colonel of the principal commandery of the sub- 
inspection; Fortification Guard (Second Class) Francisco Garcia 
Zaya ; Fortification Guard (Third Class) Francisco Orduna Burgos. 

Supervisor. — Commissary (Second Class) Ramon Poveda Baha- 
monde. 

Paymaster. — Third Official of Military Administration Alberto 
Belenquer Pielman. 

ADMINISTRATIVE SERVICES. 

Transports. — Commissary (Second Class) Marceliano Cancio y 
Abajo; Third Official Luis Hidalgo y Salas. 

Factory of utensils. — Commissary (Second Class) Marceliano Can- 
cio y Abajo; First Official Eduardo Pe"rez Fillol. 



SPANISH FORCES. 47 



MILITARY HOSPITAL. 

Director. — Surgeon Subinspector (Second Class) Carlos Moreno y 
Lorenzo. 

Chiefs of clinic. — Chief Surgeon Emilio Jerez y Huertas, Chief 
Surgeon Indalecio Garrido y Gonzalez, Chief Surgeon Pedro Pinar 
Moya, First Pharmacist Antonio Eamos Rodriguez, First Pharma- 
cist Francisco Sanchez Lahorra, Second Chaplain Jose Molina 
Jorge. 

Supervisor. — Commissary (Second Class) Marceliano Cancio y 
Abajo. 

Administrator. — First Official of Military Administration Edu- 
ardo Perez Fillol. 

GARRISON OF THE TOWN AND CASTLES. 

Provisional Battalion of Puerto Rico No. 3, general staff and 3 
companies. 

Provisional Battalion of Puerto Rico No. 4, general staff and 3 
companies. 

Twelfth Battalion of fortress artillery. 

Telegraph company. 

Section of cavalry (escort). 

Third Sanitary Brigade. 

Battalion of Volunteers No. 1. 



FIRST DEPARTMENT — BAYAMON. 

Battalion of Volunteers No. 2. 
Battalion of Volunteers No. 3. 

SECOND DEPARTMENT — ARECIBO. 

Military commandant. — Lieutenant-Colonel of Infantry Agapito 
Picazo Subiza. 

Garrison. — Provisional Battalion of Puerto Rico No. 4 (1 com- 
pany) ; Battalion of Volunteers No. 4: Battalion of Volunteers 
No. 14. 

THIRD DEPARTMENT — AGUADILLA. 

Military commandant. — Lieutenant-Colonel of Infantry Fran- 
cisco Puig Manuel de Villena. 

Garrison. — Provisional Battalion of Puerto Rico No. 4 (2 com- 
panies) ; Battalion of Volunteers No. 5. 

FOURTH DEPARTMENT — MAYAGUEZ. 

Military commandant. — Colonel of Infantry Julio Soto Villanueva. 
Garrison. — Battalion of Alphonso XIII; battalion of Aolunteers 
No. 6 ; battalion of volunteers No. 7. 



48 SPANISH FORCES. 



FIFTH DEPARTMENT — PONCE. 

Military commandant. — Colonel of Infantry Leopoldo San Mar- 
tin Gil. 

Garrison. — Battalion of rifles of the mother country No. 25; 
battalion of volunteers No. 8; battalion of volunteers No. 9; bat 
talion of volunteers No. 10. 

SIXTH DEPARTMENT— GUAYAMA. 

Military commandant. — Major of Infantry Jos6 Reyes Calvo. 
Garrison. — Provisional battalion of Puerto Rico No. 6; battalion 
of volunteers No. 11; battalion of volunteers No. 12. 

SEVENTH DEPARTMENT — HUMACAO. 

Military commandant. — Lieutenant-Colonel of Infantry Rafael 
Ubeda Delgado. 

Garrison. — Provisional battalion of Puerto Rico No. 3 (2 com- 
panies) ; battalion of volunteers No. 13. 

ISLAND OF VIEQUES. 

Military commandant. — Lieutenant- Colonel of Infantry Luis 
Garcia Alpuente. 

Garrison. — Provisional battalion of Puerto Rico No. 3 (1 com- 
pany) ; one company of volunteers. 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 49 

The following pages are taken from " The Navigation of the Gulf 
of Mexico and Caribbean Sea," Vol. I, 4th edition. — The West 
India Islands, including the Bermuda Islands and the Bahama 
Banks. — Hydrographic Office Publication No. 86, Washington, 
1898: 

MONA PASSAGE AND THE ISLAND OF PUERTO RICO. 

Mona Passage. — The channel between the islands of Haiti and 
Puerto Rico is clear of obstructions or dangers and is called the 
Mona Passage, from the small island of that name lying midway 
between Cape Rojo and Saona Island. 

Mona Island. — Its summit is nearly flat, with a few bushes and 
trees, and it may be seen from a distance of 18 miles. It is of 
volcanic formation ; its north, east, and NW. sides, consisting of 
high perpendicular bluffs, afford no landing place. On the west 
and SE. sides are a number of caves forming entrances to exten- 
sive subterraneous galleries which run in every direction. The 
surface of the island is composed of calcareous slate-colored rock, 
full of holes containing soil in which the trees and brushwood 
grow. 

There are numbers of wild goats and hogs on the island, and 
turtles during the season. 

A ridge of rocks run off the SW. point, and a vessel should not 
come inside the d^pth of 8 fathoms of water, which will be found 
at the distance of £ mile. 

The eastern and northern parts of the island are said to be clear 
of danger and steep-to. The NW. end terminates in a promon- 
tory, and its extremity rises to a lofty perpendicular rock, which 
when on a bearing N. 6 C E. (N. 6° E. mag.), or S. 6° W. (S. 6° W. 
mag.), has the appearance of a sail, with Monito open westward 
of it. From this end, named Cape Barrionuevo, round by south 
to the east end, the island is bordered by abank of white sand and 
rocks with 18 to 3£ fathoms water on it. It extends off 1£ miles 
between Capes Barrionuevo and Julia, also called Caigo 6 no 
Caigo Point (I fall, or I don't fall). It takes the latter name from 
an enormous rock on its summit which is very curiously balanced 
and threatens every moment to fall. Between Cape Julia and the 
east end of the island the bank extends off i- mile. 

Santa Isabella Bag is called by the fishermen Uvero Bay. The 
bottom is of sand, but there are so many rocks that vessels are apt 
to lose their anchors. Vessels can stand in without risk to a depth 
of 6 to 8 fathoms and then anchor. The holding ground, however, 
is bad, and a sea always sets in, so that a vessel must be ready to 
put to sea as soon as there is any sign of a hurricane from the 
west or when the south or SE. winds set in. 

El Sardinero is the safer anchorage. It is only worthy of the 
name during the season of southerly winds. The sea in it is then 
smooth, as it is sheltered by Arenas Point and the spit which 
makes out to the westward from the latter. The bottom through- 

1676- — 4 



50 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

out the anchorage is white sand, without specks, and the depth 
from 8 to 12 fathoms. Still it must be remembered that outside 
of the shoal and on the parallel of Cape Barrionuevo the bottom 
is rocky and the water is very deep ; hence it is necessary to stand 
well into the bight, where the bottom is white, without being- 
alarmed at the rocky barrier at its head. 

Landing. — In both Santa Isabella and Sardinero anchorages the 
beaches are so foul that a landing can only be effected with great 
risk. In Santa Isabella Bay, however, there are several boat 
channels through the reef or rocky heads, and in the center of the 
bay, SE. of the western point, there is a clear beach about 150 
yards in length, where a landing may be effected under favorable 
circumstances by veering the boat in from a grapnel. The points 
forming this bay are shallow. These landings are well known to 
the fishermen, and with their iissistance a boat may land, unless 
the sea is very heavy. During the season of the Northers both of 
the above anchorages are untenable, as the wind from the gulf 
and the current from the passage cause a tremendous sea. 

Water. — A little to the right of the landing in Santa Isabella 
Bay there is a pathway leading to water under the southern 
cliffs, and here firewood will be found. Indifferent drinking 
water will also be found in the lower parts of the grottoes. 

Tides.— The flood sets N. by E. and the ebb S. by W. at the rate 
of i mile an hour. It is high water, full and change, at the island 
at 6h. 15m. and the rise is about 2 feet. 

Monito lies about 2^ miles N. 22° W. (N. 22° W. mag.) of Mona, 
with a clear channel between them. This little islet is somewhat 
circular, about 400 yards in diameter, and its sides are composed 
of steep, inaccessible cliffs, but much lower than those of Mona. 
It is quite barren, but frequented by numerous flocks of sea birds. 
At a distance its summit has the appearance of a shoemaker's 
last. There are 20 and 25 fathoms water at 100 yards from the 
west side of the islet. The only place where landing can be 
effected under favorable circumstances, but with much risk to the 
boat, is at a rock on the west side of the islet. Here, in a small 
angle or indentation of the shore, vessels have anchored for guano 
in a depth of from 30 to 36 fathoms. 

Deseekeo or Zacheo, the other island in this passage, lies N. 52° 
E. (N. 52° E. mag.), about 27 miles from the NE. point of Mona. 
The island is about a mile in circumference, and almost entirely 
composed of a remarkably lofty wooded hill, which may be seen 
at a distance of 36 miles. The few dangers which lie close to the 
shore always show themselves, and are steep-to. When seen from 
the SW. the south side appears very precipitous; but from the 
northward it appears more lengthened out, and it will be found a 
very useful object in navigating the western side of Puerto Rico. 
There is no anchorage under it. 

Currents. — Near the sides of the Mona Passage there is generally 
a very perceptible current, frequently running to the north and 
NW. with a velocity of one or l| miles an hour. In the middle of 
the passage the general direction of the current is with the wind 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 51 

to the SW. The tides, also, in some parts of the passage, run 
with great force, especially to the southward of Cape Engafio, 
where, duriug the month of May, a velocity of 3| miles an hour 
has been experienced. The flood runs 9 hours to the SW. and the 
ebb to the NE. during 3 hours. Sometimes precisely the contrary 
duration occurs, and the tides have been known to run 6 hours in 
each direction. These irregularities necessitate great caution in 
navigating, and have doubtless been the cause of very many 
disasters." 

Directions. — Mona Passage is much frequented by vessels bound 
from ports in the United States to the Spanish Main and neigh- 
boring islands, and by those from Europe bound to Jamaica and 
ports on the southern coasts of Haiti and Cuba. Especially is 
this the case in the winter, when the wind is apt to blow from 
the northward of east. 

It has already been stated that there is no danger to fear this 
passage; but great caution must be used in the vicinity of Saona 
Island, which is low and foul, and a berth of at least 6 miles should 
be given it. Squalls are of frequent occurrence, especially in 
summer. They blow sometimes with hurricane force for a short 
time, and, although they often rise rapidly, always give warning 
of their approach. 

Puerto Rico. — The island in 1509 was invaded by Spaniards from 
Haiti, and has since that time been a Spanish colony. 

A range of lofty mountains called Luquillo, covered with wood 
and intersected by numerous deep ravines, runs through the 
center of the island, beginning near the XE. point aud terminating 
south of Arecibo in a hill called the Silla de Caballo. The high- 
est peak of this chain (3,714 feet high) is visible in clear weather 
from a distance of 68 miles. It lorms an excellent landmark. It 
is called El Yunque, or Anvil Peak. In the interior are extensive 
savanuahs, on which large herds of cattle are pastured, and along 
the coasts are tracts of level, fertile land. 

The principal ports of export are San Juan and Arecibo on the 
north coast, Aguadilla and Mayaguez on the west, Guanica, 
Cuayanilla, Ponce, and Arrayo on the south, and Humacao and 
Naguabo on the east coast. 

The coasts of the island are by no means well known, and 
urgently need to be resnrveyed. 

On the eastern coast of Puerto Rico there are nine small rivers 
emptying into the sea, and several ports frequented by small 
vessels to load with sugar and molasses. The instructions which 
can be given for this coast are so deficient that it would be by no 
means safe for a stranger to cruise here without a pilot, who may 
be obtained at San Juan, St. Thomas, or sometimes at Port Mula, 
on Crab Island. 

The population in 1880 was 666,000. 

Hurricanes. — Although the island is south of the usual track of 
hurricanes, it has been severely visited by them. The cyclones of 
1782 and 1825 were especially destructive. 

Custom regulations. — A decree was issued in 1877 making it com- 



52 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

pulsory that all goods be consigned to an established merchant, 
so that merchants only can clear a package through the custom- 
house, and not then unless it is consigned to them. The rules 
concerning manifests are very stringent, and are in accord with 
those of Cuba. Fines from $25 to $1,000 may be inflicted for 
breach of custom regulations, and entire confiscation of ship and 
cargo. 

Coal, when carried as sale cargo, is exempt from tonnage or dis- 
charge duties; other articles on board, however small, will sub- 
ject the whole cargo to duties. 

A bill of health certified by Spanish consul will be required. 
Vessels failing to present a manifest in the required form will be 
fined $500. 

Port charges. — Interpreter, $4. Stamped paper, $8.75. Tonnage 
dues, $1 per ton of cargo, gross. Clearance, $1 to $8, according to 
value of cargo outwards. Sanitary visit: Vessels of 200 tons, 
$10; 250 tons, $11; 300 tons, $12; 350 tons, $13; 400 tons, $14; above 
450 tons, $16. Labor costs $1 per day. Ballast, 50 cents per ton 
discharging. $1 per day for guard while marking. 

Light. — On Cape San Juan a fixed white light, with red flash 
every three minutes, is shown at an elevation of 266 feet, and 
should be visible 18 miles. The light house is cylindrical and 
dark gray in color. 

Cordilleras. — A chain of islets and reefs, called the Cordilleras, 
extends from Cape San Juan for 11 miles. The eastern group of 
these islets is called the Barriles. They are steey)-to, and between 
them and the Washer and Cactus cays there is a channel 2 niiles 
wide and 10 fathoms deep. 

Barriles Passage. — With a SE. wind a vessel bound northward 
may easily pass to the eastward of Puerto Rico and through this 
channel. It is also available for vessels bound from the north to 
any of the ports on the east or south coasts with NE. winds. 

Hermanos Passage is formed between the Barriles and the Her- 
manos Rocks, and carries about 10 fathoms water. 

San Juan Channel, between the head of the same name and the 
western extremity of the Cordilleras, is about f mile in breadth 
and 9 or 10 fathoms deep. This is, in general, the best channel for 
vessels from the east coast of Puerto Rico with the wind from the 
NE. The western extremity of the Cordilleras, which forms the 
north boundary of the channel, is composed of two groups of rocks 
a little elevated. The easternmost of the two is named Icacos and 
the western group Cucaracha. The latter is nearly on the meridian 
of Cape San Juan. 

Port Fajardo lies south of Cape San Juan. It is between Cueva 
Point on the north and Barrancas Point on the south, and has a 
depth of from 16 to 23 feet. 

On a point abreast of Obispo Islet is a battery, and a few houses 
are scattered along the beach. The town of Fajardo is 1^ miles 
inland. Population, about 3,000. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

This port is only a narrow canal, sheltered from easterly winds 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 53 

by three islets called Obispo, Zancudo, and Eamos, and also by a 
reef between the two latter having 6 to 12 feet of water on it, 
where the sea breaks in some places. The northern and southern 
ends of this reef form, with the islets of Zancudo and Ramos, two 
narrow cuts, having 23 feet of water. The southern passage is the 
widest, but neither should be attempted except in case of 
emergency. 

There are two entrances into Fajardo. Through the southern 
one a depth of 18 feet may be carried, and it is entirely clear. . It 
lies between Barrancas Point and Kamos Islet. 

The northern entrance is between Cueva Point and Obispo Islet, 
and has from 4 to 6 fathoms of water. Nearly in the middle of the 
passage is a coral patch with only 6 feet of water on it, which 
requires great care to avoid. Although narrow, this channel is 
the best to enter by. 

In approaching Fajardo from the eastward through the channel 
between Culebra and Crab islands, the navigator may choose from 
three channels: 1st, between the Cordilleras Reef and Palominos 
Island; 2d, between this island and the Largo Bank, and, 3d, 
between the Largo Bank and the chain of islets and reefs extend- 
ing to the eastward, called Piraguas and the Lavanderas. 

Although the first-named channel is the narrowest, it seems best, 
from the fact.that all its dangers are apparent to the eye. With 
the wind from the XE. it leads to windward of the port. The 
depth in this channel is from 8 to 12 fathoms; in the second from 
7 to 11 fathoms, and in the third from 6 to 8 fathoms. 

Pilots cruise off the NE. point. To signal for them hoist 
national colors at foremast head. Pilotage (compulsory), $5 for 
vessel, without regard to size. For shifting berth, $2. 

Quarantine dues. — If vessel is quarantined, $2 for each visit. 
Port warden's fees, $4. 

Supplies. — Water, $1 per puncheon alongside. Vessel's stores, 
scarce and dear. Coal, ^5 to $6 per ton alongside. Commissions 
on collecting freight, 2£ per cent; on disbursements, 2^ per cent; 
on procuring freight, 5 per cent. 

Middle Channel. — To pass through this channel between Palo- 
minos and Largo Bank, the track lies about one mile south of Palo- 
minos Island. 

The Southern Channel is bounded on the north by the Largo 
Bank, and on the south by the Piraguas and Lavanderas rocks 
and the Piiiero Islands, with a width of 2 miles. In using it, keep 
Soldiers Point on Culebra Island, bearing S. 87° E. (S. 86° E. 
mag.) until the center of Palominos Island bears N. 17° E. (N. 
18° E. mag.); the Lai go Bank will have then been passed, and a 
course may be shaped towards Eamos Island to enter Port Fajardo 
by the southern passage. 

Palominos is of moderate height, and covered with trees. Its 
shores are foul to the distance of 1- mile. Anchorage may be 
found about one mile off its western shore in 6 or 7 fathoms of 
water. 

Largo Bank is narrow and steep- to. The sea generally breaks on 



54 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

it. As before stated, this bank forms the sonth side of the middle 
channel of approach to Port Fajardo. 

Between Largo Bank and Ramos Islet there is a clear channel 
with 7 fathoms of water in it. The least water on the bank is 
said to be 13 feet. 

Great and Little Pinero Islands are to the northward of Pnerca 
Point, the eastern extreme of Puerto Rico. Farther to the east- 
ward, and forming a chain of dangers, are the Lavanderas Rocks 
and the Piraguas. There are deep channels among these rocks and 
shoals, but without a pilot it would be prudent to pass to the 
eastward of them. 

The Pineros are two small islets, covered with wood and lying 
between Medio Mundo Point and Pnerca Point, which is also low 
and wooded. On the western side of Great Pinero is a reef which 
extends northerly to Medio Mundo Point, forming a bar on which 
there is only 13 feet of water. The channel between this islet and 
the mainland is only fit for boats. 

Between the reef which extends from the shore between these 
two points on one side and the reef skirting Great Pinero Island 
on the other there is a narrow bight where small vessels may 
anchor, but it is unsheltered to the SE. and south. 

Little Pinero is nearly joined to the south end of Great Pinero 
by a reef, on which there are 13 feet of water. Near the eastern 
side of this islet there is a small detached rock, above water. 

Descubridor is a small head between Little Pinero and theChin- 
chorros, lying about 1+ miles southward of the western Lavandera. 
This danger is marked on the charts as of doubtful existence. 

Lavanderas are two small rocks on which the sea generally 
breaks. They are steep- to, with 5 fathoms of water close to them, 
and about 1^ miles apart. 

Piraguas are two small, rocky islets, 1| miles apart; they may 
be seen at a considerable distance, are steep-to, and have a clear 
passage between them, with not less than 5 fathoms of water. 

Chinchorros are two dangerous shoals. The northern shoal is 
small and has 13 feet of water on it, with 5 fathoms all around. 
The southern shoal is f mile long and ^ mile across, with only 5 
feet of water on it ; it is also steep-to. On both these shoals the 
sea generally breaks. 

A A^essel may pass between these dangers or between the north- 
ern shoal and the Piraguas. A more prudent course would be, 
however, south of all of them. Soldiers Point, kept on a bearing 
of N. 69° E (N. 70° E. mag.) will lead clear of these dangers. 

Caution. — Other shoals have been reported in this locality. 

Bahia Honda. — This bay, a little westward of the south point of 
Puerca Island, is about a mile in extent, and open to the south- 
ward. It is protected by reefs which contract the channel from 
a mile to about J mile in breadth. The eastern side of the bay 
terminates to the southward in a low, sharp point; the west side 
in a bold headland, crowned by a little hill. Near the latter a 
dry rock will be seen on the reef, and off the former the Cabras, 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 55 

two small, flat islets, covered with brushwood. The reef, which 
bars the entrance, skirts also the interior of the bay, and some of 
the patches within have only 13 feet of water on them, but these 
and the reef are easily seen. Aguas Claras River flows into the 
NE. corner of the bay. 

Shoal . — A reef lies east, distant 2 miles from Cabras Island. 
There is a least depth of 12 feet of water on this reef, with from 
13 to 26 feet all around; sandy bottom. 

Directions. — To enter Bahia Honda, the sonth point of Pnerca 
Island should be brought to bear about N. 12° W. (N. ll c W. mag.), 
when this course will lead np toward the entrance of the harbor. 
In entering, the eye from aloft will be the best guide for avoiding 
the reefs and shoal patches, and for picking out a clear spot for 
anchoring. 

The anchorage has from 5 to 8 fathoms of water, but as it is 
open to the southward and is quite limited in extent, a large ves- 
sel had better lie outside in from 6 to 8 fathoms. 

Algodon Bag. — From the western point of Bahia Honda to Lima 
Point the coast forms a large bay, in the middle of which is the 
islet of Algodon, moderately high, and near the coast. In this 
bay, which is sheltered from S"\Y. round to NE., by way of north, 
the depth of water varies from 16 to 13 feet near the shore. Three 
small streams empty into it. 

Just outside of a line drawn from Lima Point to Algodon Point 
are three shoals. 

Algodon Bank, nearly l mile in extent, with 2 fathoms water on 
it, lies with its eastern part on the meridian of the west part of 
Algodon Point, which is a large round headland, and from the 
southward presents a face nearly + mile in extent. The south 
part of the bank is about £ mile from the point; the channel 
between is 400 yards in breadth, with 31 to 44 fathoms of water. 
In steering through, haul round Algodon Point, and anchor in 16 
feet water. 

Piedras Bank is separated from the Algodon Bank by a narrow 
channel. The position of this bank is doubtful, but it is sup- 
posed to lie with Algodon Islet, bearing between N. 52° W. (N. 
51° W. mag.) and N. 71° W. (N. 70 c W. mag.). 

Lima Bank, a rocky ledge nearly awash, the sea generally break- 
ing upon it, lies about f mile S. 80° E. (S. 79° E. mag.) off Lima 
Point. It is about 600 yards in diameter. About 1-J- miles S. 43° 
E. (S. 42° E. mag.) of Algodon Islet there is said to be a sunken 
rock. 

There is a good channel between the Lima and Piedras banks, 
in which the least depth of water is 10 feet, but as the position 
of the foregoing dangers can not be accurately given, the neigh- 
borhood must be approached with great caution. 

The Port of Xaguaho lies between Lima Point and Santiago Cay. 
At l.V miles west of Lima Point, Naguabo River empties. On its 
western bank is the little village of Ucaris, off which, in the 
mouth of the river, there is anchorage for a few coasters, with the 



56 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

wind from SW. round by north to east. Large quantities of cat- 
tle are exported from here to the other islands. The town of 
Naguabo lies 2 miles inland. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

Dues. — Tonnage dues, $1 per ton; anchorage, $4; interpreter 
and doctor, $12; pilot and port captain, $16. These dues are for 
a vessel of 280 tons. 

Santiago Cay is small and of moderate height. From its SE. 
side a reef extends in a SE. direction to the distance of one mile, 
and in some parts is nearly dry. Its northern shore is perfectly 
clear. Candeleros Point may be known by the little hill upon it, 
and between the point and the islet is Puerto Humacao. 

Candeleros Point is bordered by a«reef extending off a short dis- 
tance. About one mile north of the mouth of Humacao River, 
which empties into the bay, are two small islets called the Mor- 
rillos. 

No trustworthy directions can be given for the anchorage. 

Humacao. — The town of Humacao is 2\ miles inland, on the 
river of the same name. 

Dues. — Pilot, in and out and entry, $36; interpreter and stamps, 
$12 ; anchorage and port captain, $26.50. These dues are for a ves- 
sel of 280 tons. 

In approaching either Naguabo or Humacao, the best route is 
south of Crab Island. 

Icacos Bay, south of Humacao, lies between Candeleros Point 
and Icacos Point. 

Port Yabucoa. — Icacos Point is nearly 2 miles southward of that 
of Candeleros, and may be known by a small rocky islet near it. 
Port Yabucoa is between Guallane Point, which is a little south- 
ward of that of Icacos, and Yeguas Point farther on. Guallane 
River here runs into the sea. Yabucoa village stands about 2 
miles in the interior, nearly abreast the west end of Crab Island. 

Port Maunabo is formed by Cape Mala Pascua, the SE. end. of 
Puerto Rico on the south, and Tuna Point on the north. The 
town is situated some miles in the interior, on the borders of the 
river which empties into the port. 

Tuna Point Li ij hi is a flashing white light, showing a group of 2 
flashes every 2 minutes, the flashes, each of about 7£ seconds dura- 
tion, being separated by an interval of 15 seconds, and followed 
by an interval of 90 seconds. It is 123 feet above the sea, and 
should be visible, in clear weather, from a distance of 18 miles. 

The light-house, 53 feet high, consists of an octagonal tower, 
painted white, rising above a rectangular gray building. 

General directions. — The sea on the east coast of Puerto Rico is 
generally smooth, so that vessels may lie comfortably in the 
anchorages. On leaving them, time will be saved by passing out 
through the Barriles or Hermanos Passage instead of running 
round the west end of Puerto Rico and out through the Mona 
Passage. Being off the SE. coast of Puerto Rico and near the 
entrance to the channel formed by it and Arenas Banks, when 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 57 

standing toward the Lima Bank, the west point of Bahia Honda 
should not he brought eastward of N. 27° E. (N. 28° E. niag.). 
When approaching the north end of the Arenas Reef, in standing 
to the southward do not open out Cape Mala Pascua off Narango 
Point. When El Yunque or Anvil Peak is shut in with the hill 
on the west point of Bahia Honda a vessel will he to the eastward 
of the Arenas Keef, and the southern hoards may he prolonged. 

Do not, however, bring Cape Mala Pascua to the westward of 
S. 64° W. (S. 65° W. mag.), which will avoid the Musquito, Corona, 
and Cabailo Blanco banks, which lie off the north shore of Crab 
Island, in the neighborhood of Port Mula, and on which the sea 
does not always break. In standing to the northward, go no 
farther than to biing West Mountain, St. Thomas, in one with 
Soldiers Point, Culebra, N. 75° E. (N. 76° E.mag.), until to wind- 
ward of the South Chinchorro Bank, which lies with the south 
point of Palominos in one with the westernmost Piraguas. When 
the latter is in one with Zancudo Islet, N. 51° W. (N. 50° W. mag.), 
a vessel will be to the eastward of the Chinchorros and eastward 
of the narrowest and most dangerous part of this channel, and 
may then work to windward. 

When sufficiently far to the eastward, a vessel may pass out 
through the channel between the Barriles and Hermanos Islets or 
between Icacos, Cucarachas (the westernmost of the Cordillera), 
and San Juan Head, according as the wind may be to the north- 
ward or southward of east. The last being the westernmost, she 
may proceed through it as soon as she has rounded the eastern 
Piraguas, which, however, must be given a wide berth. 

With the wind from the NE. a vessel may beat through in a 
day and a half, and from the SE. may run through in half a day. 

With a pilot it may be accomplished in much less time, as 
follows : 

Having cleared the north extreme of Arenas Bank, steer to the 
northward, so as to pass between the western Lavanderas and the 
Little Pifiero, or between the Lavanderas, on which the sea 
always breaks. Steer east or west of the Largo Bank, and thence 
west of Palominos, and through the channel by San Juan Head; 
but to do this the wind should be to the southward of east. In 
passing between the Little Pifiero and the western Lavanderas, 
bring the outer extremity of San Juan Head on a N. 18° W. (N. 
17 c W. mag.) bearing, which course will lead to the westward of 
Largo Bank and close up to the head. In taking this route the 
position assigned to the doubtful Descubridor Bank, said to be 
about south 1^ miles from the western Lavandera and about the 
same distance from Little Pifiero, should be carefully avoided. 

These directions, however imperfect, will serve to point out the 
most prominent dangers and at the same time warn strangers not 
to get entangled among them without the assistance of a pilot. 

The tides on the eastern coast of Puerto Rico run with great 
strength to the NE. 7 hours and to the SE. 5 hours. 

The north coast of Puerto Bico is rugged and uneven; it runs in 



58 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

a nearly straight line east and west, and between San Juan Head 
and Port San Juan presents no shelter whatever. San J nan 
Head slopes gradually from the summit of the hills to the sea and 
terminates in a low, but clearly defined point; for about 14 miles 
westward from the head the coast is composed of dark, rugged 
looking cliffs, breaking down from the mountain side, but as the 
hills turn inward the land becomes low and undulating and ap- 
pears to be well cultivated, many chimneys of steam sugar mills 
being seen above the trees. From off the west end of this high 
and cliffy portion of the coast, the fortifications and part of the 
city of San Juan will be seen. The shore appears to be skirted 
by a reef, inclosing numerous small cays and islets, over which 
the sea breaks violently, and it should not be approached within 
the distance of 4 miles. 

A small rock, with 14 feet over it and 5 and 6 fathoms around, 
is said to exist about 20 miles eastward of Port San Juan and 3 
miles offshore. 

Los Embarcaderos Point will not be noticeable until well to the 
westward of it, when it will be seen projecting, low and covered 
with trees. 

From Luquillo to the Loisa River the coast is low, with a range 
of hillocks 2 or 3 miles inland; back of Loisa is a hill, which, 
seen from the eastward, looks like an island. Between the Her- 
rero and Loisa rivers and between Vacia Telegas and Maldonado 
points are white sandy beaches. 

Vacia Telef/as Point is formed by two low bluffs, covered with 
trees. Maldonado Point has the appearance from the eastward 
of an island. 

Morro of San Juan will be easily recognized by the light-house. 
When within 5 miles of the entrance Cabras Island will open out; 
upon it are several buildings, and off the eastern end of it is the 
wreck of a steamer. 

Port San Juan. — About 30 miles west of San Juan Head is the 
harbor and city of San Juan. The city is well laid out, and is one 
of the healthiest cities in the West Indies. It is situated on 
Morro Island, which forms the north side of the harbor, and is 
separated from the mainland by a narrow creek, called the chan- 
nel of San Antonio. 

The city is almost hidden from seaward by the highland on the 
northern shore. 

The population is about 20,000. The sanitary condition of the 
city is good. The streets are clean and the people orderly. 

The authorities to visit are the captain general and the commo- 
dore of the station. 

The United states is represented by a consul and vice-consul. 

Coal can be had in any quantity. The amount usually on hand 
is about 3,000 tons, and costs $9 per ton. It is transferred to the 
ship by lighters, which hold about 10 tons each. 

Provisions can be had; beef is quite poor; vegetables are good 
and quite cheap. 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 59 

Water. — Either spring or rain water can be had at a cost of one 
cent per gallon. There are two water boats. 

Quarantine is strict and well maintained. There is a quaran- 
tine station on an island. A health officer boards all vessels. 

There are three hospitals— one military, which is for the use of 
the soldiers, and two private, which are small and cost $2 per day. 
For subscribers, only $1 per day. 

Steamers of the Lopez line from Havana to Liverpool, three times 
a month; to Bremen, three times a month; Barcelona, four times 
a month : and the Atlas line. 

Telegraph. — There is cable communication with St. Thomas; also 
a telegraph line connecting the principal places on the island. 

Cnst<«ms duties are high; nearly everything is taxed. 

Pilots are efficient, bat arc not necessary for a steamer. Pilotage 
is $17 in and out and $4 for moving a ship in the harbor. 

Lifeboat. — Alifeboat and life saving apparatus have been estab- 
lished at San Juan. 

Light. — The light-house on Morro Point exhibits a tixed light 
having a tiash of tive seconds' duration every minute. The light 
is elevated 171 feet above the sea, and should be visible 18 miles. 

A semaphore is erected in the Morro fort, with which vessels may 
communicate by using the international code of signals. A black 
ball is hoisted on the gaff of the signal mast to indicate the prob- 
able approach of a storm. 

San Juan Harbor. — Toward the east and south the harbor is 
sheltered by the low, swampy land of Puerto Rico, and on the west 
by the Cabras Islands and the shallow banks which connect them 
to the shore. The Cabras consist of four small islets aud two 
small detached rocks close oft' their east end, the nearest of which 
lies 800 yards westward of the Morro Point ; foul ground extends 
for nearly 400 yards off them. On Cabras Island (the largest) 
are two large hospital dwellings, and on the southernmost islet, 
called Canuelo, there is a fort which commands the entrance. 
Between the Morro and the Cabras the channel into the port is 
barred, and with strong northerly winds it breaks and becomes 
dangerous, although it carries a depth of from 4.} to 5£ fathoms. 

Off Morro Island, at the eastern point of entrance, the ground 
is foul for about 200 yards, the eastern side of the channel being- 
marked by a red buoy moored in 17 feet of water on the edge of 
the bank called St. Helena Shoal. The channel is here little more 
than 300 yards wide, its western edge being unmarked except by 
a wreck (of a steamer). Within "this edge the western bank 
sweeps round, forming a deep bight, terminating in a sharp point 
at the Tablazo Shoal, on which is a red buoy, and farther in on 
the same side of the channel there is another red buoy. 

St. Augustine Shoal also makes out from Morro Islaud to about 
200 yards from the shore, nearly abreast of San Juan Gate. Its 
edge is marked by a red buoy. 

Vessels of large draft, or those intending to make but a short 



60 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

stay, will find the most convenient anchorage between the St. 
Augustine and Tablazo shoals, abreast of San Juan Gate. 

Puntilla Shoal extends about 300 yards southward of the sandy 
point of • that name; the channel here is about 250 yards across, 
with 3£ to 6 fathoms water, its weather side being the deepest. 

To the eastward of these sand spits is the inner port, with a 
depth of from 3^ to 4^ fathoms, and quite secure against all winds, 
but the water is very foul, owing to the number of sewers emptying 
into it. Punta Larga Shoal is marked by three red buoys; there 
is also one on the northern edge of Anegado Shoal. There are 
two mooring buoys for the English and French mail steamers, and 
in the inner harbor, eastward of the arsenal, is another mooring 
buoy for Spanish ships of war. Yufri Shoal has been dredged to 
a least depth of 25 feet. 

The inner channel has, it is stated by various authorities, filled 
up considerably of late years, and there is probably less water 
there than is marked on the charts. 

Directions. — Vessels entering this port are recommended to take 
a pilot, as dependence can not always be placed on the buoys 
marking the shoals being in position ; and as vessels are seldom 
boarded by a pilot till within the harbt>r entrance, caution should 
be specially observed regarding the buoy intended to mark the 
SW. extreme of St. Helena Shoal, east side of entrance to the 
port. This buoy has at times drifted, and vessels run into danger. 

Approaching from the eastward, run down the north side of 
the island at the distance of not less than 3 miles, until Salinas 
Point comes a little open to the northward of Great Cabras 
Island; keep on this line until the mouth of the harbor comes 
open, when steer for it, giving the Morro Point a berth of 225 
yards, and having rounded the buoy on St. Helena Shoal, haul up 
for the anchorage abreast San Juan Gate; with the wind well to 
the northward this may be gained, but should it be southerly, 
having passed the Morro, shoot as far in as possible and anchor, 
towing or warping up when the wind falls. With the wind strong 
from the northward the sea on the bar frequently breaks and 
becomes dangerous. On account of the difficulty of steerage 
great caution must be used. In a sailing vessel, a pilot will be neces- 
sary for the inner port, where the holding ground is excellent, 
and the land eastward of the town being low, the benefit of the 
cool trade wind is felt, but, as before stated, the water is foul. 
No good leading mark can be given for the narrow channel 
between the outer anchorage and the Puntilla Shoal, and as the 
water is muddy, it can not be distinguished by the eye. 

Inner haroor. — The channel to the inner harbor is marked by 
three red buoys on the port hand and two small light-red buoys 
on the starboard hand. From the outer harbor the passage to the 
inner harbor will look puzzling to a stranger, as more than this 
number of buoys will be visible. 

To enter the inner harbor steer to pass the red buoy off San 
Juan Gate at 100 yards distance, and then between the red barrel 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 61 

buoy off the Barrio de la Puntilla and the two conical light-red 
buoys on Tablazo Shoal, keeping well over to the port hand. When 
abreast the inner conical buoy the barrel buoy off the end of 
Puntilla Shoal will not fail to be recognized, and it must be passed 
close-to on the port hand, and two small red buoys on Punta 
Largo Shoal, off the city, brought immediately ou the starboard 
bow, to avoid going on that shoal. Moor with open hawse to the 
N W. in the outer and to the XE in the inner harbor. 

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Port St. Juan at 
8h. 2m. ; springs rise about H feet. 

Coast. — The north coast of Puerto Rico from San Juan to Are- 
cibo, a distance of 33 miles, affords only indifferent anchorages, 
of which Man at i is the best. 

Manati River. — Coasters and other vessels which ship the prod- 
uce of this coast anchor either at the mouth of the river, where 
there is no shelter and where landing is impracticable in bad 
weather, or at Palnias Altas, which is more secure with ordinary 
winds. In fair weather the coast may be approached within a 
mile, in depths varying from 15 to 26 fathoms. 

Tortugvero is a small town on the shore, about 20 miles westward 
of Port San Juan. This part of the coast as far as Arecibo should 
not be approached within 3 miles. 

Arecibo River, having its outlet east of the town of that name, 
has 3 feet of water on its bar. When much flooded the river forms 
another channel to the westward; but this entrance is always dan- 
gerous on account of the reefs which skirt that part of the coast. 
The river rises in the mountain chain which traverses the island 
in an east and west direction; aud between Utuado, a town near 
its source, and Arecibo, a considerable trade in provisions is car- 
ried on by means of raits. 

Between Arecibo and Aguadilla the coast affords no shelter even 
for coasting vessels. 

Arecibo is a small reef harbor of considerable commercial im- 
portance, about 12 miles westward of Tortuguero, but in the win- 
ter season it is only safe for small vessels that can get inside the 
reef. At that period vessels of large draft will find anchorage on 
the bank, about 2 miles off shore, but they will ride heavily and 
must be prepared to slip the moment the wind threatens to veer 
to the northward or westward. In the months of April, May. 
June, and July vessels of moderate draft may venture farther in 
and auchor under the reef in from about 3i to 4 fathoms water. 

The town stands on the western side of the bay, and is pro- 
tected by a circular fort to the eastward of it. About a mile to 
windward of the town a tower and signal post will be seen on a 
steep hill. Near the center of the reef is the cut or channel for 
small vessels, and at the east end, between it and the cliff', there 
is a passage for boats. 

There is a rivulet of excellent water, deep enough to admit 
launches, at the XE. end of the bay, near the town of Arecibo. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 



62 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

Port charges. — For a vessel of 226 tons, with ballast in and cargo 
out, the expenses were $408. 

Light. — A fixed white light is intended on the Morillo de Areciho 
(Punta Morillo), east side of Areciho road. 

The light is 120 feet above the sea, and in clear weather will be 
visible about 18 miles. 

The light-house is a rectangular building with a hexagonal tower 
attached, both painted white. 

Coast. — From Areciho to Agujerada Point, 24 miles to the west- 
ward of it, the northern coast of the island is flat, low, and sandy. 
It there takes a SW. direction for a mile, and is formed of bold, 
rocky cliffs. Bruqueu Point may be rounded within a mile, where 
the depth will be from 20 to 25 fathoms; but the coast here is 
fringed with reef and must be cautiously approached. 

Light. — From a red masonry light-house on Bruquen Point is 
exhibited, at an elevation of 65 feet, a light visible 14 miles. The 
light is flashing red and white alternately every \ minute, and 
is reported irregular. 

West coast. — From Bruquen Point the coast curves outward to 
the SW. for about a mile and then becomes low and sandy as far 
as Pefias Blancas Point, which is covered with trees. 

Aguadilla Bag. — On the northern shore of this bay is the town 
of San Carlos de Aguadilla, on the banks of the river from which 
it takes its name. 

Toward the southern part of the bay is the village of San Fran- 
cisco. . 

The town of San Carlos is an excellent place to obtain water and 
all kinds of provisions. 

Vessels of any size may auchor here with ordinary wind, but 
during the winter months a heavy swell rolls into the bay. The 
only dangers are the reef off Pen as Blancas and the sand bars at 
the mouths of the small streams, which extend off about 400 yards. 

A narrow ba.nk of soundings, about £ mile wide and very steep- 
to, skirts the shore. In anchoring, he careful, not to do so too 
near the edge of the bank, as a vessel is liable to drag off. In the 
winter time it would be prudent to be prepared to go to sea at 
once upon any indication of a shift of wind to the north or NW. 

A good berth will be found with the church in the town of San 
Carlos bearing S. 84° E. (S. 84° E. mag.) and the north point of the 
bay N. 11° W. (N. 11° W. mag.), in 18 fathoms, about | mile from 
the shore. In approaching Aguadilla Bay from the southward, 
care must be taken to keep Jiguero Point to the eastward of N. 
11° E. (N. 11° E. mag.) to avoid the foul ground which extends as 
far to the southward as the SW. point of the island. 

The population of the district is about 12,500. The Atlas line 
of steamers calls here. 

Bincon Bay is between Jiguero Point on the north and Cadena 
Point on the south. The bottom is foul and affords no good 
anchorage. 

Jiguero Point Light is a fixed white light. The light, 69 feet 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 63 

above the sea, should he visible, in clear weather, from a distance 
of 8 miles. 

The light-house, 38 feet high, is a rectangular building with an 
octagonal tower rising from the center. 

Pelegr'ino Beef has 10 feet of water over it, and on it four vessels 
have been lost. It lies about one mile off the coast, midway 
between Cadena and Jiguero Points. The reef is not discernible 
in ordinary weather, and caution is necessary when navigating 
in this vicinity. 

Cadena Point, 4 miles southward of Aguadilla Bay, should not 
be approached within the distance of a mile. 

Ahasco Ban lies between Cadena and Algarrobo Points. There 
are many factories in the neighborhood. The Anasco River 
empties into the bay, and has thrown up a shallow bar before it, 
which extends more than £ mile from the shore Outside this 
there is well-sheltered anchorage, with the prevailing winds for 
vessels of the largest draft. The outer Las Manchas, the north- 
ern of the outlying shoals off this bay, with only 2 fathoms water 
on it, must be carefully avoided. 

Mayagiiez Bay lies between Algarrobo and Guanajibo Points, and 
is. about 3 miles \vide and 1£ miles deep. In the northern part of 
the bay the depth gradually decreases from 10 to 4 fathoms towards 
the shore, but shoals extend across the entrance, requiring great 
attention in working in. The anchorage affords excellent shelter 
from northerly winds, and admits vessels of large size, and is un- 
doubtedly the best anchorage in the island. 

From Algarrobo Point (which may be known by a house with a 
red roof, built upon high piles on the hill just above the point) 
the coast of the bay trends to the SE. for 1^ miles to Little Algar- 
robo, a low, sandy point, on which there is a sugar factory, with 
a chimney and souie blue buildings around it. There are two 
sugar factories with high chimneys situated at the northern part 
of this bay, about i mile north of Algarrobo Point. The shore 
between is foul for 600 yards off; and ^ mile SW. from Algarrobo 
Point lies the reef of that name, which at the outer part is nearly 
dry and steep-to. 

At about ^ mile southward of Little Algarrobo Point, at the 
head of the bay, is the entrance to the Mayaguez River, in which 
small droghers lay up for the hurricane season. The river is a 
ditch of the smallest proportions, almost dry at the entrance. 
There is an iron bridge across it, and before it is the best anchor- 
age, sheltered from the northward round by east to SW., with 
good holding ground. Thence the low shove bends round to the 
SW., with shallow water some distance off, and north H miles 
from Guanajibo Point a spit runs off nearly a mile from the shore. 

Mayagiiez is a thriving town, healthy, lighted with gas, and has 
excellent water. Tram cars run from the custom-house to the 
town. 
The town is clean, orderly, and well kept. Generally but one 



64 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

family lives in a house. Yellow fever is sometimes epidemic. The 
temperature in summer ranges from 75° to 90°. 

There is telegraphic communication with the principal ports of 
the island. 

The authority to visit is the military commandant. 

The United States is represented by a commercial agent. 

Supplies. — Provisions are expensive. 

Water can be had, both spring and rain water. Cost, $2.50 per 
ship, no matter what quantity is taken. Ship's boats must be 
used. 

Quarantine is not very strict. There is a health officer. There 
are two hospitals — one private, which has six beds for foreign 
seamen at a cost of 50 cents per day ; also a military hospital, for 
the use of the soldiers. 

Port charges. — Pilot and harbor-master's fees, $10. Interpreter, 
$4. Tonnage dues, $1 per ton of cargo. Health visit: Vessels of 
150 tons, $9 ; and on each 50 tons in excess of 150, $1 additional. 
Custom-house fees, in and out, and stamped paper, $17.50. Dis- 
charging ballast: Sand, 50 cents per ton; stone, free; ballast 
guard, $2 per day. Discharging general cargo, $10 per load of 
40 tons. 

Lights. — Two small red harbor lights shown from the wharf serve 
as a guide to boats at night for the landing place. 

Buoys. — All the buoys at the entrance to the harbor are painted 
white. 

The tide rises and falls in Mayaguez Bay from 2 to 3 feet, but no 
exact determination of the time of high and low water has been 
made. The periods are said to be irregular. 

Guadeloupe Reef. — In 1876 the French mail steamer Guadeloupe 
ran aground while entering Mayaguez Bay. The following bear- 
ings were taken while the vessel was aground: Jiguero Point, N. 
20° W. (N. 20° W. mag.); Desecheo Island, N. 60° W. (N. 6U° W. 
mag.). No information has been received as to the vessel's draft 
or as to the depth of water on the bank. 

Tourmaline Beef. — Westward of Mayaguez, an extensive reef 
having as little as 4 fathoms of water over it, aud possibly less, 
was recently passed over by H. M. S. Tourmaline. From the reef 
the peak of Cerro Montuoso (8 miles eastward of Mayaguez) bore 
east (east mag.); Desecheo Island, N. 30° W. (N. 30° W. mag.). The 
bottom is apparently of coral, with remarkable white stripes 
extending north and south across it. The bottom was visible in 
12 fathoms. 

Outer Las Manchas is the northern and outermost of the shoals 
at the entrance of Mayaguez Bay, and lies N. 68° W. (N. 68 c W. 
mag.) about 2\ miles from Algarrobo Point. It is about \ mile in 
extent, with from about 2 to 4 fathoms water on it, and sometimes 
breaks. The dark, discolored water may be seen at a little dis- 
tance. 

Lnner Las Manchas lies f mile S. 45° E. (S.45° E. mag.) of the 
Outer Las Manchas. It is -i mile in extent with 2 to 3 fathoms 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 65 

water on it. Between it and the Algarrobo Reef there is an inner 
channel a mile wide, with 5£ fathoms in it. 

Allart Bank. — This hank, on which a Danish frigate of the same 
name struck in 1833, is about f mile in length and \ mile in breadth, 
with from L} to 2| fathoms water on it ; the shallowest part lies N. 
17° W. (N. 17° W. mag.) of Guanajibo Point and S.56° W. (S.56° 
W. mag.) 2 miles from Algarrobo Point. The passage between it 
and the Inner Las Manchas is ■£• mile in breadth, with from 3£ to 
4-J- fathoms water, and is the principal channel leading to the an- 
chorage of Mayaguez. 

Rodriguez Bank. — The northern edge of this shoal is about L} 
miles to the southward of the Allart and just without the line of 
the bay. It is about \ mile in extent and dry in several places. 
Between the Rodriguez and the Allart there is a bar with 13 to 16 
feet water over it. 

The channel between Rodriguez Bank and Guanajibo Point has 
13 feet least water and is used only by coasters. 

Pierre Blanche (white rock) is a small patch of one fathom, lying- 
just within the line of the Aliart and Rodriguez banks, at about 
an equal distance from each. It obstructs the passage between 
these banks. 

There is said to be good anchorage to the westward of the 
Mayaguez Banks, but in the absence of trustworthy information 
of the neighborhood it should be approached with caution. 

Directions. — A good mark for entering Mayaguez Bay through 
the channel between Allart Bank and Inner Las Manchas is Cerro 
Montuoso Peak in line with the northern and higher hnmmock of 
a wooded, saddle-shaped hill bearing S. 79° E. (S. 79° E. mag.). 

For a steamer, or for a sailing vessel with a fair wind, the best 
course will be found by bringing Montuoso Peak over the custom- 
house, bearing S. 73° E. (S. 73° E. mag.). 

The custom-house is near the water's edge, and is the most 
southerly of four large houses with flat roofs, lying close together. 
The church on with Montuoso Peak also leads over the bar of the 
Mayaguez River, in 12 feet of water. If the buoys are in place a 
vessel has only to steer in midway between them. 

In beating in, a A^essel may stand toward Las Manchas (inner) 
until the custom-house and church are one; but to the southward, 
toward the Allart Shoal, she must tack before the peak of Mon- 
tuoso comes in line with the church, until within the two shoals. 
When the land to the southward of Guanajibo Point is shut in 
with that point bearing south a vessel will be eastward of the 
outer banks. In coming from the northward, the channel may be 
taken between Las Manchas and the Algarrobo Reef. In this case 
take care not to haul in around Algarrobo Point until the peak of 
Montuoso opens south of the chimney of Vigo ; s sugar house, which 
is white and a conspicuous object near the shore north of the 
Puntilla Battery. 

With a large vessel it is advisable to take a pilot. 

Coast. — The coast between Mayaguez Bay and Cape Rojo is foul 

1676 5 



66 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

and bordered by rocky shoals which extend fully 1J miles seaward. 
The approaches to this part of the coast are rendered dangerous 
from the want of definite knowledge as to the positions of the 
various ofiiying rocks and shoals. 

Port Beal de Cabo Bojo, about 9 miles south of Mayaguez Bay, is 
almost a circular basin f mile in diameter, with a depth of 16 feet 
in the center. The channel, which is very narrow and tortuous, 
carries 9 feet water, and lies near the south part of the entrance. 
From the north point an extensive reef runs off, which, after skirt- 
ing Cay Fanduco, terminates at Varas Point. The inhabitants in 
this locality subsist chiefly on fish ; boats leave here during the 
season for the turtle fisheries of Mona Island. 

Boqueron Bay. — About 2 miles from Port Real is Guaniquilla 
Point, and between it and that of Melones, 2£ miles farther on, is 
Boqueron Bay. It is obstructed by numerous shoals both within 
and without. It may be entered by two channels, having not less 
than 4 fathoms water, which lead into a spacious and sheltered 
anchorage. 

Boqueron Bay appears to be the line of separation as regards 
the climate and productions of Puerto Rico. On the north side, 
where there is an abundant rainfall, the country is fertile, covered 
with trees and rich pasture lands, where cattle feed. To the 
south, toward Melones Point, and having its rise there, is a chain 
of arid mountains without trees or pasture; an uninterrupted 
drought does not permit the growth of vegetation on this side, 
but it will be seen from the following description that the shoals 
off this end of Puerto Rico, between Mayaguez and Cape Rojo, 
are so numerous and so imperfectly known as to render it not 
only difficult but dangerous to approach either of the above 
places. 

Negro Shoal is of small extent, and almost always breaks. It 
lies 3^ miles from the nearest, part of the shore, with Guanajibo 
Point bearing N. 85° E. (N. 85° E. mag.), and Jiguero Point N. 8° 
W.(N.8° W.mag.). 

Media Luna Shoal is said to be a reef f mile long and about 400 
yards wide. The sea sometimes breaks upon it. From its north 
end Guanajibo Point is said to bear N. 62° E. (N. 62° E. mag.) and 
Jiguero ?oint N. 6° E. (N. 6° E. mag.) ; £ mile east of it are said to 
be three rocks on which the sea breaks constantly, but the exist- 
ence of both shoal and rocks is very doubtful. 

Las Coronas are sand banks about & mile in extent, which just 
cover, and sometimes break. They lie to the southward of Negro 
Shoal, with Guanajibo Point bearing N. 37° E. (N. 37° E. mag.), 
and Jiguero Point N. 3° W. (N. 3° W. mag.) 3£ miles from the coast. 

Guaniquilla Shoal is not marked on the Spanish chart, but is 
said to lie 2 miles westward of Guaniquilla Point. It is a rocky 
ledge, 400 yards in extent, with 16 feet of water on it. 

Gallardo Bank is also a rocky ledge, which lies nearly 6^ miles 
west of Melones Point. It is 600 yards in extent, and has 16 feet 
of water on it. Halfway between this bank and the shore another 
16-foot shoal is shown on the charts. 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 67 

Mount Atalaya is the highest and northernmost of two peaks at 
the western extreme of the chain of mountains which runs from 
east to west in the NW. part of the island. It has a noticeable 
appearance and forms an excellent landmark. 

Cape Rojo, the SW. point of Puerto Rico, is a bold bluff sloping 
down from a hill with two peaks. Seen from the east or west it 
has the appearance of two small islands close to highland. When 
seen from the southward two remarkable bluffs are seen to the 
eastward of it. 

A good fishing bank of clear white sand and coral, called the 
White Grounds, extends 8 or 9 miles from the cape, on which the 
depths are from 6 to 15 fathoms ; the edge is very steep-to, and 
the bottom is visible in 12 or 13 fathoms. 

Light. — A light-house is erected on Cape Rojo, from which, at an 
elevation of 128 feet above the sea, a wbite light revolving every 
minute is exhibited, visible 18 miles ; the building is hexagonal in 
shape. The light has been reported irregular. 

The south coast of Puerto Bico is generally foul, and should be 
very guardedly approached, for there is very little correct infor- 
mation respecting it. It appears, however, that in some parts 
soundings extend to a considerable distance from the shore, and 
the lead should, therefore, be well attended. In running down, 
it is advisable not to come within 4 or 5 miles of the land. From 
the offing, this side of the island appears lofty, but the shore is 
generally low and bounded by mangroves. Sixteen small rivers 
empty into the sea from this shore, but few are capable of admit- 
ting even boats. There are many small harbors and anchorages 
under the reefs, known to the fishermen and droghers, and one or 
two capable of receiving vessels of a large draft. The south coast 
of Puerto Rico, Lieut. Zuloaga remarks, is incorrectly shown on 
the existing charts, and should not be approached within a dis- 
tance of 6 or 7 miles without great caution. 

From Corcho Point, one mile SW. of Cape Mala Pascua, the 
coast curves to the northward and westward, then to the south- 
ward, forming a bay into which the Guardawaya River empties. 
Viento Point forms the western limits of this bay and the eastern 
limit of the bay of Patillas, the western limit of the latter bay 
being Figuera Point. No accurate information can be given with 
regnrd to these bays, but they are believed to be more or less 
obstructed by reefs. 

Light. — A light is exhibited from a light-house on Figuras (Fi- 
guera) Point. The light is a fixed white light, visible through 
an arc of about 180°, or from Cape Mala Pascua eastward, to 
Obras Grande Point westward. It is 47 feet above the sea, and 
should be seen, in clear weather, from a distance of 12 miles. 

The light-house, 44 feet high, consists of an octagonal tower, 
painted a light gray color, rising above a rectangular building of 
black, white, and light gray colors. 

Port Patillas, in Patillas Bay, is situated about 3 miles inland on 
the left bank of the Chiquito River. 



68 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

Guayama Beef. — Its outside edge is at an average distance of 3| 
miles from the shore. It is divided into three parts, the eastern 
being named Media Luna, the middle Algarrobo, and the western 
Ola Grande. 

Vessels sailing along this part of the coast are cautioned to keep 
well outside of this reef. 

Arroyo is a small bay immediately westward of Figuera Point. 
It can be easily recognized by the village of Arroyo, lying 3 or 4 
miles inland and visible 12 or 15 miles. There is a white church on 
a little hill above the village, having on its western end a square 
tower and a cupola on the eastern end. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

Anchorage. — The anchorage may also be recognized by the cus- 
tom-house, a large yellow building. The center of the town bear- 
ing about north leads in through the passage between the reefs, 
which is stated to be about one mile in width. This bank is a 
spit running off from the eastern reef, and will be cleared by keep- 
ing the middle of the village of Arroyo bearing N. 22° E. (N. 23 c 
E. mag.). 

A good berth is f mile offshore, with the custom-house bearing 
north (N. 1° E. mag.). This anchorage is not all well sheltered, 
and a constant SE. swell is felt, and vessels anchor with port 
anchor with a spring in the cable, or run a kedge to keep head to 
the swell. 

Port charges. — Vessels calling in ballast pay captain of the port 
pilotage, $10 ; health visit, according to tonnage, $10 to $15 ; inter- 
preter, $4; stamped paper, if the vessel takes cargo, $10; custom- 
house fees, $4; tonnage dues, $1 per ton. 

Guayama, although merely an open roadstead, is secure with the 
ordinary winds and much frequented. The anchorage possesses 
excellent holding ground, and is protected to the eastward, against 
the trade winds by a reef, 3 miles in length, which extends be- 
tween 3 and 4 miles from the shore. It lies about 12 miles west- 
ward of Cape Mala Pascua, and may be recognized from an offing 
outside the reef by a guardhouse on the shore, which bears about 
N. 10° E. (N. 11° E. mag.) of the west end of the reef, and a wind- 
mill on a hill a mile to the westward of it. To the eastward of 
the reef, between it and the cape, the depth is from 10 to 7 
fathoms at 2 or 3 miles from the shore, and 13 fathoms at a mile 
outside to the southward of it. As the anchorage is approached 
the soundings become very irregular, varying from 5 to 8 fathoms 
until within the reef, when they gradually decrease as the shore 
is neared; the lead must therefore be well attended. 

Directions. — When approaching Guayama roadstead from the 
eastward — or indeed if bound to either of the ports on this side 
of the island from that quarter — Cape Mala Pascua should be 
given a berth of 4 miles, and when it bears to the eastward of N. 
1° W. (north mag.) the Guayama Reef will generally come in 
sight from aloft. Shape the course to pass well outside, paying 
attention to the lead, and when the guardhouse bears N. 10° E. 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 69 

(N. 11° E. mag.) haul in toward it, under the west end of the 
reef, and steer boldly in. The church kept open a little eastward 
of a prominent hill in the interior is a good course in. The best 
anchorage will be found in 4 fathoms water, about a mile from 
the shore, with the guardhouse on the same bearing, and the west 
end of the reef S. 12° E. (S. 11° E. mag.). In leaving the bay, if 
bound westerly, steer out S. 22° W. (S. 23° W. mag.), but a good 
offing must be obtained before bearing up, in order to avoid the 
cays and reefs to the westward. The Avhole coast line of the bay 
is wrongly chartered and the shoals are farther from shore than 
shown. 

Vessels when passing along the south coast of Puerto Rico and 
in the vicinity of Arroyo Bay should exercise great caution, in 
order to avoid the dangers fringing the shore. 

Port Jobos or Boca del Infienio. — About one mile to the westward 
of Port Guayama a narrow peninsula runs to the westward for 3 
miles, which, with a couple of islands lying off its western end, 
forms Port Jobos or Boca del Infierno. No trustworthy informa- 
tion is attainable with regard to this port. Several small streams 
from the hills inland lose themselves in the swamp at the head of 
the bay, none of them emptying directly into the sea. The port 
is formed between Pozuelo Point on the east and Colchones Point 
on the west. 

Port Afjuirre is at the head of the bay between Colchones and 
Arenas Points. 

Port Salinas de Coamo is well sheltered by reefs. The entrance 
may be easily distinguished by several cays lying near Arenas 
Point and a guardhouse about 4 miles to the northward of the 
western cay. The channel lies between this western cay and a reef 
E} miles west of it, on which the sea always breaks. 

Coming from the eastward, after bringing Cape Mala Pascuato 
bear north, distant 4 miles, the course will be S. 84° W. (S. 84° 
W. mag.), which will carry a vessel outside all the cays lying 
along shore. 

Steer boldly in between the outer or westernmost of the cays 
lying off Arenas Point and the reef 1£ miles to the westward, 
passing the cay at a distance of 200 yards. Stand in toward the 
guardhouse and anchor with it bearing N. 6° E. (N. 6° E. mag.) 
about one mile distant, in 4 or 5 fathoms of water. 

Discolored water extends for some distance to the southward of 
the cays. Three miles off shore the depth is 10 fathoms, decreas- 
ing to 7 fathoms as the coast is approached. 

In leaving this harbor a vessel should, if bound to the west- 
ward, stand to the southward until Muertos Island bears to the 
northward of west (west mag.) before keeping away. 

Nina Shoal. — Within the harbor is a rocky shoal, with 16^ feet 
on it, with 22 feet all around. 

Water. — There is a good watering place in Port Salinas de Coamo 
on the shore near a lagoon, about £ mile to the westward of the 
guardhouse. 



70 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

Coamo Bay. — Its shore is skirted by reefs throughout its length. 
The Coamo River empties into the bay. Near Coamo Point are 
several small cays, and 2 miles to the southward are the Berberia 
Cays, with dangerous banks near them. Petrona Point is the 
eastern extremity of the bay. 

Boca Chica. — The reef continues to the westward around Coamo 
Point as far as Port Pastillo. Boca Chica is a small trading place, 
and the approach to it is said to be clear of dangers. Soundings 
should be carefully attended to. 

Port Jacagua is situated at the mouth of the small river of the 
same name, 1-J miles west of Boca Chica. To the westward of the 
mouth of the river are two small cays, called the Frios. This 
port is said to be easy of access, but no exact directions can be 
given. As the soundings diminish regularly from 6^ to 3£ fathoms 
in approaching the shore here, the lead will be a good guide. 

Muertos or Dead Chest Island lies 4 miles off the south coast of 
Puerto Rico and nearly midway between the SW. and SE. points 
of the island. The southern part of the island is high and rocky, 
sloping toward the north, and from a distance looks like a separate 
island. The island is nearly connected to the coast of Puerto Rico 
by a reef extending from its NE. point, on which the sea generally 
breaks heavily. This reef seems to skirt the east and south sides 
of the island. In the latter direction it extends \ mile off shore. 
At about 200 yards distance from the SW. end of the island there 
is a small flat rock, called the Hammock, with a dry reef between 
them. The Hammock should not be rounded nearer than \\ miles. 
Four hundred yards sonthwestward of the Hammock there is said 
to be a rock with 8 feet ou it. 

Water can be obtained on Dead Chest Island by digging wells a 
little above high-water mark. Turtles are plentiful in the proper 
season, and the neighboring banks abound with fish. 

Anchorage. — The western side of Muertos Island is free of danger, 
and affords fair anchorage in from 7 to 12 fathoms water. A good 
berth may be taken with the NW. point of Muertos in one with 
the northern hill bearing east (east mag.), in 8 fathoms, sand, at 
about i mile from the shore ; or with the western extreme of Ham- 
mock Cay S. 20° E. (S. 20° E. mag.), distant H miles, and the 
north point of Muertos N. 50° E. (N. 50° E. mag.). 

Light. — From a tower standing in the middle of a T-shaped 
building on the SW. point of Muertos Island a light is shown at 
an elevation of 297 feet and should be visible 18 miles. A flash of 
three seconds duration is shown every three minutes. 

Berberia Cays. — Three miles N. 67° E. (N. 67° E. mag.) from Muer- 
tos Island are two cays named Berberia, and in their neighborhood 
are many dangerous banks, very imperfectly known. With the 
island bearing west, distant 3 or 4 miles, the depth is 6 fathoms. 
From the hills white water is seen a considerable distance to the 
eastward; the lead must, therefore, be well attended. The cays 
are joined by a reef. From the larger and northern cay a shoal of 
considerable size extends NW. and SW., on which there is only 6 
feet water. These two cays are often submerged, and are danger- 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 71 

ous to approach on the west and south sides; hut to the north- 
ward of the larger there is good anchorage in 4£ to 7 fathoms, 
mud. 

There is said to he a clear channel north of Berheria Cays with 
5^ fathoms least water. 

Great caution must he observed by the navigator in this vicinity. 

The Bay of Ponce is nearly 3 miles across between Carenero, the 
eastern, and Cucharros, the western point; the port is in the NE. 
corner of the bay, and on its shore is the village of Port Ponce, 
containing 1,500 inhabitants. The custom-house, a long, white, 
two-storied building, with flat roof and flagstaff, is the 'most 
prominent object in the village, and is very conspicuous from 
seaward. The shores are low and bounded by mangrove and 
cocoanut trees, but 2 or 3 miles westward of Cucharros Point the 
land rises and becomes hilly. R atones Island is low and covered 
with brushwood; its surrounding reef, which nearly dries at low 
water, stretches off southeastward for 600 yards. Arenas Cay is 
small and bushy. 

Cardones Island is low, covered with brushwood, and in its cen- 
ter is a wooden house. A reef surrounds the island to the distance 
of about 400 yards. 

Light. — There is a fixed red light on Cardones Island, elevated 
46 feet above the sea, and it should be visible in clear weather 
from a distance of 10 miles. 

The light-house, 39 feet high, consists of a cylindrical tower with 
a red cupola rising above a rectangular building, which is white 
in color, with blue panels. 

Cayito Beef is a dangerous coral bank which seldom breaks. 
There are 9 feet on its eastern edge, and probably shoaler water 
will be found. A white chimney open eastward of the negro huts, 
near the cocoanut grove on the north side of the bay, bearing- 
north (north mag.), clears the east side of the bank. There is a 
7-fathom channel between Cardones Island and Cayito Reef, but 
it should not be taken without a pilot. The Gatas, four small, low 
cays off Carenero, appears as a continuation of that point; its 
projecting reef, upon which the sea breaks, is steep-to. At the 
extremity of the reef off Penoncillo Point northward of Carenero 
are two small rocks which uncover 4 feet at low water. Cabrillon 
Point lies about f mile eastward of Carenero Point; two small 
islets or cays lie off it. 

Vessels approaching Port Ponce should not come within 5 miles 
of the land until the light-house bears N. 68° E. (N. 68° E. mag.), 
which should then be steered for, passing westward of Tasmanian 
Shoal. When abreast of Cardones Island, alter course to N. 11° E. 
(N. 11° E. mag.) for anchorage. The fore and main masts of a 
steamer wrecked on Tasmanian Shoal show two-thirds above the 
water. 

The town of Ponce has a public hospital and is lighted with gas. 
It is connected with Jamaica by a telegraph cable, and also has 
telegraphic communication with the principal places on the island. 

The law holds the masters of vessels responsible and liable to 



72 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

fines for any false declaration in contents, quantity, weight, or 
measure. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

Supplies. — The supply of coal and wood is uncertain. Water is 
scarce and bad. Vessels' stores, being mostly imported, are high. 

Port charges. — Tonnage dues, $1 on each ton of cargo; health 
dues on vessels of 100 tons, $8, and $1 for each 50 tons in excess 
up to 450 ; $16 for all over 450 tons ; pilotage in and out, $10 ; tug- 
boat charged by agreement; wharfage, for each lighter load of 
cargo, $1 ; sand, per lighter, $5 ; interpreter and duplicate mani- 
fest, $12; stamp paper, entrance and clearance, $10; fort pass, $2; 
hospital fee, $4; taking in stone ballast, per ton, $1.50; sand bal- 
last, per ton, $1; ballast guard, $1; horse hire for filling molasses 
casks, per puncheon, 6£ cents; water delivered alongside, per 
puncheon, $1; labor, per day, $2; stevedore, per hogshead, 20 
cents; coal, from $7 to $12 per ton. Cargo is handled by lighters. 
Vessels with clean bills of health are quarantined for twenty-four 
hours; vessels from infected ports, from eight to forty days. 

Harbor rules. — No vessel is allowed to change her anchorage 
without permit from harbor master; fine for doing so equals 
double pilotage. All vessels from foreign ports are obliged to wait 
the sanitary and revenue visit. Vessels in quarantine will fly a 
quarantine flag. All boats must come alongside the wharf in front 
of the custom-house. No vessel can ballast or unballast without 
permission of the harbor master. Mineral coal is considered as bal- 
last. No vessel can leave after sunset or before sunrise. Colored 
men as passengers or crew can not land. 

Tasmanian Shoal (or Brillante), on which the Tasmanian 
grounded, has 3^ to 5 fathoms of water over it; this shoal ground 
is nearly circular with a diameter of about 600 yards ; as little as 
13f feet have been reported on the east side of the shoal. 

From the shoalest part, the center of Ratones Island is in line 
with a remarkable fall in the hills bearing N. 77° W. (N. 77 c W. 
mag.), and a conspicuous clump of trees on the middle (the sec- 
ond) range of hills behind the town is in line with the east 
extreme of Ponce Village N. 11° E. (N. 11° E. mag.) 

The conspicuous clump of trees in line with the house of the 
captain of the port (the house next west of the custom-house) 
bearing N. 14° E. (N. 14° E. mag.) leads westward of the shoal. 
The saddle hill, nearly on the same line of bearing, and given as 
a leading mark on the chart, is not easily distinguishable. 

Eastward of Tasmanian Shoal, i mile distant, is another patch 
of shoal ground; this is about 400 yards in diameter, with 3f to 
4^ fathoms water on it. There is a depth of 6^ fathoms between 
the two shoals. 

Buoy. — A bell buoy, surmounted by a ball and painted red, has 
been moored in 3 fathoms water, on the west edge of the Tasmanian 
Shoal. 

Directions. — Shoal and uneven soundings exist southward of the 
bay for some distance from the shore, probably on irregular banks 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 73 

extending from Ratones Island on the westward and from Muer- 
tos Island on the eastward, leaving a deep channel between them 
into the port, eastward of Cardones Island. Approaching from 
the westward, the custom-house open of the east end of Cardones 
Island, hearing N. 28° E. (N. 28 c E. mag.), crosses the hank in 5£ 
fathoms, and on Hearing Cardones, open the custom-house to N. 
17° E. (N. 17 J E. mag ). Erom eastward, round Hammock Cay, 
at the distance of 1} miles, and steer N. 59° W. (N. 59° W. mag.) ; 
on nearing the port the shipping and upper part of the custom- 
house will he seen over the low mangrove trees, and small vessels 
may cross in four fathoms water, with the custom-house in line 
with the west end of Gatas Islets. Large vessels should bring 
the custom-house to bear N. 17° E. (N. 17° E. mag.), on which 
bearing the least water will be 13 fathoms, and when abreast of 
Gatas steer north (north mag.) to the anchorage. The edge of the 
bank is H miles southward of Cardones Island. Pilots can always 
be obtained, but they only board vessels when off Cardones. The 
land breeze often sets out between sunset and sunrise. 

Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Ponce Harbor at 
2h. Om. (approximately) and the rise 2 feet, but they are very 
irregular. 

Port Matansa is a small bay open to the southward. The 
Penuelas River empties into it. Ratones Island serves as a mark 
to the entrance to this port. From Port Matansa the coast trends 
SW. to Guayanilla Point, between which and Majagua Point is 
the Bay of Guayanilla. Near Guayanilla Point are several small 
islands. Majagua Point is skirted by a reef. 

Port Guayanilla is a large bay, almost circular, open to the south- 
ward. Several small rivers empty in the bay. There is anchor- 
age in this port in ol fathoms water; the entrance is open on a N. 
11° W. (N. 11° W. mag.) bearing. 

To the westward of the port the coast is foul. 

The town of Guayanilla is situated on the banks of the river 
of the same name, about li miles from the entrance. 

Port Guernica. — This port is an inlet about H miles in length in 
a NW. and SE. direction, and ^ mile in breadth, with a depth of 
3-S- fathoms water at its inner end and 4£ fathoms at its eastern, 
over a sandy bottom. It is the best harbor on this side of the 
island, and lies about 15 miles eastward of Cape Rojo. The depths 
in this port are shoaling on account of the alluvium carried down 
by the rains. A mud bank, with a few scattered rocks extending 
from the north shore almost to the center of the port, has only 2 
feet water. 

Its entrance, formed between two bold headlands, Meseta Point 
on the east and Pescadores Point on the west, is little more than 
200 yards wide, and is in the middle of a large bay formed between 
Brea Point, a bold and rocky cliff, and Picuda Point, 3 miles east- 
ward of it. 

Close off Picuda Point are two small islets, called Cana and 
Cana Gorda. Between them and Meseta Point an unbroken semi- 



74 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

circular reef sweeps round outwards to the distance of f mile 
from the shore, and without this, 800 yards off, there is a detached 
narrow, rocky ledge 600 yards long in a north and south direc- 
tion, with a depth of only 12 feet water on it. The south end of 
this ledge lies S. 23° E. (S. 23° E. mag.), a mile from Meseta 
Point, and on the line between Brea aud Picuda Points. The 
western shore, between Pescadores and Brea Points, recedes into 
a deep bight, which is blocked up by a reef extending across from 
the former to within \ mile of the latter, and is steep-to. 

Light. — A light is exhibited on Meseta Point. The light is a 
fixed white light, 118 feet above the sea, and visible, in clear 
weather, from a distance of 8 miles. 

The light-house, 40 feet high, is a rectangular building with an 
octagonal tower rising from its center. 

Directions. — Approaching Port Guanica from the eastward, run 
down outside the reefs until Meseta Point is in line with the 
western pap of Caila Oorda, which may be easily recognized. 
This mark will lead in close alongside to the westward of the 
outer ledge in 10 fathoms water. The point on with the eastern 
pap will lead more in mid-channel, and when Cana Gorda bears 
"N. 84° E. (N. 84° E. mag.) a vessel may steer for the center of the 
channel into the harbor, Run boldly through between the 
entrance points, and take up the most convenient berth within, 
where there is nothing in the way. The SW. shore is the boldest ; 
but the farther a berth is chosen to the eastward, the easier it 
will be to sail out. In beating up from the westward, Brea Point 
may be passed at the distance of 200 yards, then steer for Point 
Meseta until the middle of the entrance bears north (north mag.) 
when stand in and anchor. 

Coast. — From Brea Point a broad chain of reefs, known as the 
Margarita, extends as far as Cape Rojo; the south extreme of the 
reef extends fully 4 miles off shore and forms a point to leeward 
of the village of Parguera. This chain of reefs affords three pas- 
sages, which are only accessible to vessels of light draft and which 
no vessel should attempt without the aid of a pilot. 

Terremoto Passage. — In the neighborhood of Salinas Bay, be- 
tween Carcovarlo Point and Terremoto Cay (the largest of the 
outer cays), is Terremoto Passage, where the soundings are 4£ to 
7 fathoms, aud by which coasting vessels enter Salinas Bay. 

Faluch or Middle Passage is near Cabras or Mateo Island, and 
has 9f fathoms of water. The eastern edge is marked by a small 
mangrove cay, from which a reef extends to the NW. Faluch 
Passage, the best of the three, leads to the port of Guijano, which 
is formed by the coast and an inner line of reefs, and has a depth 
of 7 to 9 fathoms. The port is spacious, deep, aud sheltered from 
all seas. 

Indio Passage, the western one, is about 4 miles westward of the 
Middle Passage. It is abreast of Pitajaya. It is about 400 yards 
broad and has 7 fathoms of water inside. Anchorage, sheltered 
from the sea, is found under the lee of the reefs. 



SAILING DIRECTIONS. 75 

Cape Eojo and light. Page 351. 

Winds. — The winds around Puerto Rico appear to he of the same 
character as those met with at the Virgin Islands. There is no 
regular land breeze to take advantage of. although the usual trade 
wind generally slackens during the night in the immediate vicin- 
ity of the shore. Under the west end the wind in the daytime will 
incline inward. In the winter months north and NW. winds some- 
times occur, and blow hard; and in the summer long calms and 
light SE. airs prevail; with terrific squalls and heavy rains, espe- 
cially on the south side. From the absence of any remarks on the 
rollers, we may conclude that they are at least not so heavy or so 
dangerous as at 'the Virgin Islands. 

Currents. — On the north side of Puerto Eico the current is said 
to incline generally to the SW. or towards the shore, and to run 
with greater velocity in the winter than in the summer months. 
On the south side its course is generally west, but its movements 
are here uncertain. Some navigators state that at the full and 
change of the moon a strong weatherly set will occasionally be 
found, especially if light winds or northers have prevailed near 
these periods, and consequently gives great assistance to vessels 
beating to windward. In February it has been found running a 
knot an hour to the northward; in the summer months it will in- 
cline to the NW. towards the shore, and round the SW, end into 
the Mona Passage with great force. 



LBJi 



